Steiner is a very well-respected brand with deep roots in the shooting community. So it was with great anticipation that I jumped on the opportunity to check out the Steiner T6Xi 2.5-15 riflescope. I had recently reviewed this scope’s big brother the 5-30 version, so I was excited to see if the smallest member of the T6 family stood out. I am nothing if not a long-range rifle junkie, so nerding out over another beautiful little riflescope is right up my alley. It’s been one of my pastimes for the last few decades.
Our adventure today involves the smallest child of the T6 family, there is also a3-18and the aforementioned 5-30 model. With a little luck perhaps I’ll get hands on the middle model as well. But for now let’s get a good look at the 2.5-15.
The T6Xi 2.5-15 is based on a 34mm tube, which has become the popular option with long-range precision shooters. Up front you will find a 56mm objective lens to draw in as much light as possible for a bright image. The scope has a fairly squatty appearance, looking a bit short. But this is a welcome feature for many of the compact rifles that this scope will be mounted to. And though Steiner scopes are built for rugged duty, the smaller size will also reduce weight.
At the center of the scope you will find the same basic erector assembly as the other T6Xi scopes. The T6 family has a very intuitive and genius turret system, the numbers are underneath the turret and change when going from the first turn to the second. Revealing second rotation numbers means there is never any question as to what revolution you are on.
The high volume of motion on tactical scopes often requires some way to confirm what revolution of the turret you are on, and this design is a fantastic way to accomplish it. There is also a cunning turret lock design that prevents unwanted rotation of your turrets.
Specifications
Weight: 32 ounces
Length: 12.8 inches
Magnification Range: 2.5X – 15X
Objective Diameter: 50mm
Tube Size: 34mm
Elevation Turret Details: Exposed 34 MIL
Windage Turret Details: Exposed 30 MIL
Parallax Adjustment: 25 yards to infinity
Reticle Position: 1st
Reticle Details: SCR
Field of View: 44.5 – 8.5 feet at 100 yards
Illuminated Reticle: Yes – 4 night, 7 daytime
On the Range
With the stubby little Steiner mounted to my Taurus Expedition .308 rifle, I headed into the hills to give the combination a workout. I must start by saying that I love medium-power riflescopes. Scopes that aren’t pushing for such high magnification always seem to be so clear and bright. I’d mounted the scope in a set of 34mm rings, and I found one thing that was just slightly irritating. Due to the small size of the T6, you don’t have a lot of wiggle room when it comes to mounting. Not a big deal, but it may require you to be very deliberate in your mounting solution.
you can read more about this rifle and scope combination HERE
After zeroing the scope to the rifle, I reset the turrets at zero. This is done by loosening the two screws of each turret and rotating the turret back to zero. This design keeps the turret body affixed to the erector hub, making for a robust construction.
The turret locks are quite interesting. The top of each turret has a locking ring you can turn to engage or disengage. In the locked position you can see a “locked” indicator, and when unlocked you will see an accompanying “unlocked” indicator. This feature adds to a stronger turret structure. Many turrets are lifted to unlock and pushed down to lock, but the design of the T6 seems stronger as the turrets are secured in place and not meant to move up or down.
Shooting the Steiner T6Xi
With the scope ready for action, I began picking out targets across the canyon in evening light. Many of my usual targets popped out in the yellow light. I gripped the parallax adjustment, turning slightly to better pick out my targets.
I have gone far too long without proper hearing protection, just ask my wife. Serious shooting really does require some good protection for your ears. Most of the time I am shooting suppressed which is better but still arguably bad for your ears. The advent of electronic hearing protection has given us many better options, and today I bring you another one. In this article I will share with you my thoughts on the Warbird Intrepid BT headset.
Warbird is a safety company as far as I can tell, manufacturing various personal protective pieces of gear. The Intrepid BT is a bluetooth enabled headset to allow everything you want to hear come through, while keeping sharp noises like gunfire muted. Warbird also makes eye protection in various styles, as well as soft body armor.
Lets go over some of the features of the Intrepid BT:
Bluetooth Enabled
NRR 23dB
Two Omnidirectional Microphones
Full Dynamic Range HD Speakers for Clear, Balanced Sound (40mm, 20 ohm)
High-Definition Sound Effects
Low Frequency Tuned for Natural Sound Clarity
Sound Dampening Composite Housing
Sound Active Compression- 0.01 Second Reaction Time
HiFi Audio Input Jack- 3.5mm
Positive Response Power, Volume and Select Buttons
TPU Covered Gel Ear Pad
Comfort Headband with Metal Frame
USB Charging Port (Rechargeable)
Semi-Rigid Case Included
Like most hearing pro, the Intrepid muffles out the loud noise around you. But it also uses dual microphones to pick up the normal sounds around you so you can hear things like voices and other similar sounds. But it keeps out the deafening report of gunfire and other noises that might damage your hearing.
Charged up and ready to go
I was very impressed with the Intrepid as it incorporates a great deal of added benefits as well. The dual mics give you stereo sound, which is far more important than you think. My older set of electric hearing protection had only one mic, leaving you wondering where sounds were coming from. In addition to the dual mics, the Intrepid BT has comfortable dual gel filled ear cups to seal comfortably against your head.
controls of the Intrepid BT
The BT in the Intrepid stands for bluetooth, one of the three settings of the Intrepid allows you to bluetooth to your phone or other device. This morning while shooting at the dreaded public range, I facetimed the office for a meeting while on a live firing range. And when the meeting was over I continued to listen to my favorite 80’s yacht rock while I finished out my range session. All while still listening to others talk guns in the background.
As if that wasn’t enough, the micro USB rechargeable Intrepid also has a 3.5mm input jack that you can plug into your Walkman for old-time sake. The spring suspension fits comfortably over your head or hat, and is adjustable for most sizes.
note the two jacks, the 3.5mm audio jack left, and the micro USB on the right for charging.
On the Range with the Intrepid BT
I opened the box to find a nice carry case containing the headset. The zipper closes nicely to keep dust and other contaminants away from your ear pro. I removed the Intrepid and fitted it to my ears, immediately soothed by the gel filled cups. Pressing the power button quickly brought the Intrepid to life, and every little sound around me was suddenly noticeable.
this Galil ACE was very loud, but quite comfortable when used with the Intrepid BT
With my ears covered by the Warbird Intrepid headset, I hit the range on various occasions. As much as I hate public ranges they can be good for testing. As I mentioned already, it was nice to be able to hear everything going on around me on the firing line. The stereo mics made it clear where sound was coming from, allowing me to better monitor other shooters on the firing line.
Despite shooting some very large caliber rifles, as well as those of other shooters, I found my noise level to be quite tolerable. Even the deafening blast of my Desert Tech HTI 50 BMG was softened to a safe level. Shooting even in the confined spaces of an indoor range, the Intrepid kept my ears from getting overwhelmed.
12 Gauges like this Panzer M4 are much more pleasant with the Intrepid
But even cheap headsets can keep noise out, so what makes this set any better you might ask. Let me go over some pros and cons that you might use in deciding on what kind of hearing protection you want to purchase.
we tried the fit of the Intrepid on a variety of heads, you can read more about that Eotech Vudu 1-6 here
Pros and Cons
Pros
First of all I found the stereo mics enough reason to never use anything else again. I hate wearing non-stereo hearing protection. You hear something happen and spin around in every direction wondering where it came from. The dual mics of the the Intrepid give you a strong sense of direction based on sound. I don’t know if you could navigate in the dark using them, but that would be worth trying.
The bluetooth feature is also incredibly handy, while more a luxury than anything it is one worth having. Whether it be for listening to music, instructional training or whatever else, it’s nice to be able to do while still slinging lead.
I found the comfort of the Intrepid headset to be very pleasant as well, at least as good as one might expect. The tight fitting yet comfortable suspension band is low profile to prevent getting hung up on things. And it also helps keep other headgear in place while maneuvering.
Not only is the bluetooth feature handy, but being able to plug the Intrepid in is nice too. I didn’t need the audio jack, but plugging it in to charge on the way to the range is way better than going through batteries. The Intrepid is also much more affordable than some comparable hearing protection units.
Cons
As a firm believer in abolishing the NFA, I would much rather use suppressors than hearing protection. So for me wearing them is a bit of a necessary evil, but I must admit that if I must wear over-ear protection, these are a great option.
Like any over-ear set of hearing pro, you are going to sweat in the heat. The gel cushion of the Intrepid is better than foam, but a better seal might make sweating worse. This is just one of the side effects of safety, so not much can be done about it.
There are cheaper options for over-ear hearing protection, but not many of them have all these features.
Last Words
I really like the Warbird Intrepid BT hearing protection, I have several other options in my kit but I often find myself grabbing these. Even if only for the bluetooth feature. Since we all really should start wearing proper hearing protection, I can strongly recommend this headset as a solid option. Other similar models like the Safariland Liberators are more than double the price, as are the Sordin Supreme set.
Perhaps you aren’t the type hanging from helicopters in the dark, and like me just want some quality hearing protection when necessary. For that the Warbird Intrepid BT is fantastic, and brings quite a few features that even more expensive models don’t offer. You get clear stereo sound and ears that don’t ring after you get home.
Get yourself a set of Intrepid’s, you wont regret it!
Venison shanks are an underrated delicacy, and one that is often discarded for the grind-pile. Today I’m going to share with you my version of a tasty recipe I often remember from my grandfather. Today we are cooking roasted venison shanks.
Ingredients
2 or more venison (or comparable) shanks
2-4 potatoes
A dozen small carrots
Red wine
Can of broth
One half onion
As much garlic as you dare
Garnish (Parsley, chives, chopped peppers)
Season list (below)
two shanks trimmed and cleaned up for cooking
History
My grandfather raised sheep his whole life. During that time, he perfected cooking lamb shanks. And we grew up eating lamb shanks on Sundays as a special treat.
My grandfather in the late 1960’s. The deer being cooked today was taken just out of frame on those same mountains
The shank of an animal, is the lower portion of the leg. From the knee down. These parts of the animal are often discarded to the scrap or burger pile due to their nature. They are quite full of sinew which makes them a challenge to clean up.
And due to their location, they often dry out more than other parts of the animal during the aging process. Today’s recipe will help you turn these sometime less-desirable pieces of your game into a delicious delicacy you’d proudly serve your family.
Preparing your venison shanks
a Sawzall makes short work of the shanks, and doesn’t mess up the meat on the bone
Start by removing the shanks from the animal, I prefer to do this after at least a day or two of aging. I use a saw to get as clean a cut as possible without disturbing too much of the meat on the bone.
Additionally I saw off the lowest portion of the bone (the ankle area) since it is mostly bone and unnessesary. Opening both ends of the bone also allows the cooking process to liberate the marrow inside, which is full of taste and nutrients.
Ingredients
Once the shanks are removed, clean them as best you can. Scoring the exterior of the shank slightly in many places also allows penetration of your seasoning. Season the shanks as you like, but this is my way:
Olive or avocado oil
Salt (or garlic salt)
Oregano
Rosemary
Coriander seed
Bay leaf
After a healthy rub of oil, add the rest of your spice list. Allow them to marinate thusly for as long as possible. Pass the shanks into a rippin’ hot cast iron to brown them. Prefferably to get a good even crisp around all surfaces.
Basting the shanks in hot grease while they brown
Cooking
I also like to add either bacon grease or other lard and baste the shanks in the hot grease while they brown. Once the shanks are browned, I add a glass of red wine (cabernet) and reduce by half.
Adding red wine to simmer and reduce
If you like things a little spicy like we do at my house, I also add some chopped jalapeños from my garden. But you do you. Half an onion and several cloves of garlic are coursely chopped and added to the pot as well. Followed by one can of your preffered broth.
Add your broth after reducing the wine
You can either pass the roasting dish to the oven, or put the entire mixture into a slow cooker. Oven roasting would ideally be done for around 3-4 hours, while slow cooker can be done up to 8 hours. Cook the shanks until they are falling off the bone. When done you should have to carefully remove them with tongs to prevent them falling apart.
Slow cooker tip: Do not completely cover the slow cooker crock with the lid, as the condensation will “wash” the color from your shanks. Leave it slightly open to allow vapor to escape. Add water as needed.
Towards the end of the cooking process, add a bunch of carrots and potatoes. Put them in with enough time to finish cooking with the meat. And soak up some of the delicious flavor.
add vegetables towards the end of cooking
Serving
When the shanks are done, plate them with vegetables and top with some fresh chopped veggies and perhaps some parsley or chives. I’ve used peppers here for a kick.
a tender and tasy dish
Roasted venison shanks is a greasy delicious meal that feels like something from the old world. The cooking process renders all the tendons and fat down into a tasty and nutritious gravy you can serve over the vegetables.
Dont grind up your shanks, they can be a delicious special meal during hunting season. Apart from rendering every part of my game animals into a meal, this recipe also reminds me of those cold winter Sunday afternoons eating a hearty meal as snow falls outside. Enjoy these roasted venison shanks.
I am neither a Kimber hater or a fan-boy, but I have been around long enough to know that they have certainly made some great products over the years. Their 1911 pistols are very well known, as are some of their other pistols like the one we are looking at today; the Kimber K6S 357 Magnum Target pistol.
The K6S is the latest in the line, utilizing the DASA system that uses both a double and single action trigger mechanisms. The result is a fantastic trigger performance and an enhanced experience shooting. The K6S brings several options for those looking for a slick shooting defensive pistol, besides the trigger you have a couple different grip options, as well as barrel lengths. And any caliber you choose as long as it’s .357 Magnum. Let’s get this Kimber out of the box and onto the range.
Unboxing the Kimber K6S
The pistol came in a double-sided soft case in the factory box, simple and useful at the same time. I opened it up to see a beautiful satin stainless finish, and a handsome laminate wood grip. The unique facets of the cylinder immediately caught my eye and got me wondering what else this revolver had in store.
I picked the pistol up to feel the checkered grip in my hand, it looked like it might be a little small to fit my hand but it turned out to be just right. The trigger was a touch close to the grip, which made it feel like my hands were still a touch big for the gun, but certainly close enough to work with.
The cylinder is released with a push-button on the frame, I like this style over the sliding forward button style. It seemed a touch sticky, enough that the cylinder wouldn’t fall open without some pressure pushing it out.
full-house
The hammer spur has a nice curl to it that keeps it pretty low profile when it is cocked, and also makes it feel very natural to reach and pull with your thumb. The texturing on the spur is aggressive enough to feel and get good purchase , but not so much as to be abrasive.
On top of the pistol I found the hinged rear-sight, it is fully adjustable and the spring tension keeps it up where it belongs. The rear sight is serrated to avoid reflecting light, the front sight is pinned to the muzzle and features a bright green fiber-optic. Together they make a great tool for aiming the little pistol.
It was time to feel the DASA trigger that I’d read about, so I pulled the hammer back for that satisfying double click. The single action pull of this trigger feels great, very little movement when it breaks. The double action felt much like I am used to feeling, a longer pull followed by a clean snap.
Range Time with the K6S
I rarely use the double action with pistols, I prefer the cleaner single action pull for most shots. The double action would be useful in a situation where you need to shoot a bunch and quickly. Personally I prefer the more accurate and stable shooting of a single shot at a time.
With a few boxes of American Eagle ammunition in hand, I headed to my shooting spot to give the little Kimber a workout. The easy loading of cartridges seems to be like soothing therapy to a gun nut like me. The long and slender 357 cartridges made a tapping sound as the rim hit the cylinder. With a snap the loaded cylinder went into place, and it was time to start making noise.
The 357 is not a huge cartridge, but it does pack a punch for its size. The K6S does a fine job of handling the modest recoil, and making it pleasant to shoot. I shot through several cylinders of cartridges before realizing the smug little smile I was sporting.
The K6S seemed to be just the right size for my taste, smaller 357’s are harder to control with such small grips. And their lighter weight doesn’t hold back as much recoil either. The Kimber felt just right, big enough to be fun and easy to shoot. And it also felt small enough to still be usefully carried for various tasks.
the grip was a litle small for my hands but still gave good purchase
I found the sights to be very easy to pick up, and they made it simple to hit my targets. I shot much better shooting single-action vs. the double-action function. This obviously came as a surprise to no one. As it was, shooting from ten-yards I was able to keep the shots under two inches. Since I’m not pistol match-shooter, I’m not sure if thats good or not. But I felt like it was certainly good enough for my purposes.
the K6S sights made for great shooting
Shooting this little Kimber made me feel like I was hooting better. That might seem like a really important endorsement if you hadn’t seen me shoot before. But it certainly made me enjoy shooting it even more.
Just for good measure, I wanted to let a few 38 Special’s run through the pistol as well. My grandfather shot more 38’s and 357’s than anyone else I know. I still am working through coffee cans full of bullets he casted perhaps when I was a child. It feels good to let some of grandpa’s handmade bullets loose every now and then. The K6 was happy to send them on their way too.
The cylinder also has a shoulder around the breach of the chambers, this seems like an additional safety addition. But on top of that it also makes a clean look to the cylinder by covering the rims of the cartridges as well.
If you like revolvers there is a lot to like about the Kimber K6S. The handsome grips are both comfortable and useful for a good grip. The sights are very nice and allow for positive aiming and good accurate shooting. The trigger is fantastic either way you pull it, and the hammer is equally user friendly and easy to manipulate. The handsome brushed stainless finish gives the pistol a refined look and keeps it from shining in the sun or other bright lights.
You may have heard the term before, it is often some variation of getting kissed by the scope or some other colorful reference. But they typically all mean the same thing, it is caused by the eye piece of a scope hitting the shooter in the eyebrow or nose area.
The impact of the scope is caused by the recoil of the firearm. It can cause anything from a red spot, to outright bleeding or a black eye.
This Remington 700 does not feature a muzzle device, but it does have a heavier barrel, and chambered in the low recoiling 308 Winchester
What Causes it?
The cause of this phenomenon is a simple result of physics. As a firearm fires a projectile from the muzzle, it produces recoil pushing the whole weapon towards your shoulder. The force at which it comes at you depends entirely on a few things. The biggest factor is usually the size of the cartridge and the energy it produces.
The bigger the force pushed forward by the cartridge, the larger the force will be coming back at you. This can be arbitrated somewhat by other factors, such as the weight of the firearm in question.
Why is it a hunting ritual?
Probably the biggest reason getting scoped occurs is due to a lack of practice. Proper shooting practices include recoil management. Holding a rifle or shotgun properly in order to control the recoil as you pull the trigger. For many gun owners, shooting a scoped and heavy recoiling gun may not be as frequent as plinking with their preferred firearm.
A very typical case is this one; A person can shoot frequently and in high volumes with one rifle. But perhaps when hunting season rolls around each fall, they pull out their preferred hunting rifle. Which may be of a large caliber, and frequently a light-weight firearm.
Since many hunters only shoot a few rounds a year (at least from their hunting weapon). They run the risk of being unfamiliar with its recoil. And when you couple that to a heated hunting moment, where you have worked hard to get into a shooting position.
You often have to make a quick shot, and it’s easy to forget your recoil management or hold the gun in just such a way that it kicks you right in the eyebrow. We’ve all seen the hunting pics where a grinning hunter smiles behind a set of antlers with blood running down their nose.
How to avoid it
As mentioned above, proper recoil management is the best way to avoid getting scoped. Properly seating the rifle against your shoulder and doing so in the correct position will greatly reduce your chances of redecorating your eyebrows.
Other ways you can protect yourself from the shame of scope eye is to use mechanical aids, such as a muzzle brake. Brakes reduce felt recoil by redirecting the high-pressure gasses from the muzzle. Deflecting at an angle that reduces the recoil that is felt by the shooter. Some folks use gun-vises, something I don’t encourage for good reason.
A gun-vise holds a rifle and takes up much of the felt recoil for the shooter, but in doing so they affect the way the gun recoils and can change your point of impact as compared to shooting without the vise. This could easily cause a miss in the field when you least expect it. So unless you plan on hunting from your gun vise, it is perhaps more harmful than helpful.
Another good option to avoid mockery by your shooting companions is to avoid some monster caliber in the first place. Much of the hunting done in North America takes place inside three-hundred yards. Animals like white-tail deer and comparable animals do not need a 300 Ultra Magnum to effectively and ethically take them.
A Soft Option
There are plenty of softer-shooting cartridges with more than enough power to take game animals without rearranging your face. The way your firearm is configured can greatly affect the way it recoils. A heavier gun will require more energy to push it back. Therefore a heavier gun will recoil less than a comparable gun of lesser weight.
You can apply any or all these methods to avoid getting scoped, but recoil management is the most important. It is part of the foundation of good shooting, so don’t jump immediately to mechanical aids until you master the basics. A good hold tight in your shoulder pocket, and a good cheek weld, will keep the gun from recoiling more than the distance your brow needs to stay safe. We should also mention length of pull and scope mounting. Your firearm should be setup with a proper length buttstock, and proper eye relief to keep your eye a safe distance from a recoiling scope. If it doesn’t fit you, you’re asking for trouble.
Conclusion
If you’ve made it this far in life without getting scoped, chances are you are doing things right. And if you are one of those in the exclusive “Split-brow” club, you probably learned how to avoid it the hard way.
If you’re somewhere in between these two groups, I encourage you to employ the tactics we’ve discussed here. Continue your shooting endeavors so that perhaps someday your unscarred face might grace this publication.
Hornady has a pretty good record of their new cartridge introductions. The 7mm PRC is one of their latest releases. Today we will look at what the middle PRC brings to the bench.
The incredible popularity of the 6.5 PRC and 300 PRC show that these new cartridges have incredible potential. But what does the 7 PRC do that your 7mm Remington Magnum won’t?
The 7 PRC is a long-action seven-millimeter magnum rifle cartridge. As its namesake suggests, the cartridge is designed with precision in mind. Hornady claims the PRC uses high-quality brass to hold back the magnum pressures and utilizes better propellants for more consistent velocities.
The 7 PRC is spec’d out with faster barrel twists than traditional 7mm cartridges. Which allow it to shoot the highly efficient and heavier bullets like the 175 ELD X and 180 ELD M.
These features allow the PRC to launch the 175 ELD X at a blistering 3000 feet per second.
Other 7mm Magnums like the Remington Mag don’t typically have the barrel twist for that. And those that could push the same speeds are usually quite over-bore, resulting in terrible barrel life and expensive brass.
The 7 PRC offers shooters a purpose-built precision cartridge that maximizes the performance of heavy .284 bullets from a standard long-action rifle.
I am a huge fan of fast-moving 7mm cartridges, so I jumped at the opportunity to get knee-deep into the 7 PRC.
With such great potential, the 7 PRC is an outstanding candidate for many different activities. First and foremost for me though is its potential as a superior hunting cartridge. Seven-millimeter cartridges have a great spread of bullet selections to pick from, so regardless of your target species, there can be a seven for you.
The high Ballistic Coefficient (BC) of the heavier seven-millimeter bullets can carry massive amounts of energy for even the largest North American game. Alternatively, being a precision cartridge, it will do excellent long-range hunting work on standard-sized big game.
And since I brought up long-range, I may as well mention that the 7 PRC is also a great choice for those who just want to shoot targets that are far, far away. And since it can easily fit into a standard long-action, it’s a simple rebarreling to run the PRC in a gun you probably already have.
As a hunter myself, and one who enjoys hunting big game at whatever distance they present themselves here in these Rocky Mountains, the 7 PRC was immediately appealing. Other hunters who wish to apply precise shots on game or targets from great distances could excel with this cartridge. Whereas if you don’t anticipate shooting bullets over 150-160 grains, nor at distances exceeding 400-500 yards, the 7 PRC may be more cartridge than you really need. Not that it has ever stopped any of us from doing that…
You should definitely do a little research before jumping into something like the 7PRC. You’ll want to ensure you get a barrel with the appropriate twist rate to take full advantage of the cartridge.
SPECIFICATIONS
Caliber
7mm/.284
Powder Capacity
57- 67 grains (depending)
Primer
Large rifle (magnums)
Bullet weights (recommended)
150-195 grains
Barrel twist (recommended)
1:7.5
Parent Case
.375 Ruger
Brass Manufacturer
Hornady, Petersen
Hornady 7mm PRC PROS & CONS
PROS
Very fast muzzle velocity
Impressive flat trajectory
Heavy bullet selection
High efficiency for more energy on target
Efficient powder burn for prolonged barrel life
CONS
New cartridge adoption
Not inexpensive
7MM PRC AT THE RANGE
I was very excited to get the 7 PRC off the ground. I had some factory ammunition from Hornady. But I also wanted to load some of my own to see how the PRC handled some even larger and longer bullets like the 195-grain Berger and the Sierra 197 SMK.
With two rifles chambered in the 7 PRC, I had a great opportunity for comparison. The first rifle is a Christensen Arms Ridgeline FFT with a twenty-two-inch 1:7.5 twist barrel. The other is a barrel for my Desert Tech SRS M2, and it is a twenty-six-inch 1:7 twist barrel.
Both rifles would serve as excellent hosts of this new precision cartridge.
The Christensen Ridgeline
First up was the Christensen Ridgeline FFT. After zeroing the rifle at one hundred yards, I shot a few groups to see how it patterned. The lightweight Christensen bumped pretty well with the heavy PRC loads, and while it shot good enough for most purposes, I wanted more.
The Ridgeline did seem to show an affinity for the 175 over the 180-grain bullet. Either of them would suit me just fine for hunting purposes. The velocity from the twenty-two-inch Christensen barrel was lower than Hornady’s listed, which I expected. I was curious to see how the same ammunition performed in my twenty-six-inch SRS barrel.
The SRS M2 is a different animal. It’s more suited towards a sniper purpose or something a little more tactical. While the Ridgeline is purpose-built for hard hunting, so keeping that in mind, I expected the performance to be a little dissimilar.
With the SRS M2 on the firing line, I changed targets out and loaded the five-round magazine.
The rifle had been a 338LM only minutes prior, but I swapped it out for the 7 PRC right there on my shooting mat. With a brand new and unfired barrel I would have a slightly different POI, but I knew it would be close.
The first shot landed a couple of inches off, but in the interest of not wasting ammo, I left it alone and fired four more shots. The accuracy was immediately noticeable. I found myself squinting for a second, thinking, “Am I hitting the same spot?”
After adjusting a few things on both rifles, I decided to stretch them out a bit. After all, this PRC was meant to run.
I peered across a deep canyon that lay before me, and across the way, I looked at a small rock that I had beaten senseless over many years. It lay protected under a cliff and free of snow and surrounded by dirt that would easily show my misses.
At nine-hundred and fifty yards, it wasn’t a close target either.
Comparing both rifles
I took turns at the rock with both rifles, having calculated the drop using my Trasol Ballistic application and using the muzzle velocity obtained moments prior with my Magnetospeed chronograph.
I dialed only 20.9 MOA (6.1 MRAD) for the shot using the SRS, which put me right on top of it. The Ridgeline’s lower muzzle velocity needed a bit more elevation; it required 24 MOA (7 MRAD) to hit the target.
I managed to hit the rock several times with the Ridgeline, the SRS, on the other hand, hammered almost every shot. I figured it was time to shoot something actually quite far, so I picked out another target at 1800 yards.
The tighter accuracy of the SRS M2 was very apparent at that distance, and despite dropping to below 1300 FPS at that distance, it was still possible to see the impacts. With a proper wind hold at that distance, the bigger bullets from the 7 PRC were kept within a twenty-four-inch target.
FEATURES
QUALITY BELT-LESS BRASS
The Hornady 7mm PRC Precision Rifle Cartridge has a quality brass supply from both Hornady and Petersen. Other manufacturers will likely also start making brass for it as well. This gives the PRC a leg up over many of the other popular magnum 7mm’s.
SPEC’D FOR RIGHT TWIST
Many of the other 7mm magnum cartridges have antiquated barrel twists. Bullet technology has come a long way, and shooting some of these newer bullets requires a faster twist barrel. The standard twist rate for the 7 PRC will handle nearly all the heavy 7mm bullets available today.
HIGH BC BULLETS
7mm bullets are great performers at long-range. And the newest high BC bullets are perfect companions for the PRC. Together they make the cartridge an undeniable power house for long-range shooting and hunting.
HOW WE TESTED
During the testing of the 7mm PRC, I ran the ammunition over a Magnetospeed chronograph to test velocity. Hornady claims that the powders used in the 7 PRC make it very consistent.
I found during testing that it was running very close to posted velocities, close enough to consider it atmospheric anomalies.
For accuracy testing, I fired five-shot groups at 100 yards. I then averaged these groups out to see what kind of predictability they had.
Once I had accuracy and velocity tested and annotated, I punched the data into my ballistic computer to generate a realistic drop chart. I wanted to see how this thing performed way down range.
I started with some modest distances of 300 and 500 yards, shooting at targets that were .5 MRAD in diameter. After easily hammering those targets, I stretched it out to 600 and then 770 yards. With predictably good hits on both before moving to the further targets mentioned above.
HANDLOADING THE 7 PRC
Loading the 7 PRC would take a little more effort than normal, as it typically is when getting into a new cartridge. At the time of writing this, brass is only available from either Hornady or Petersen, both of which offer quality components.
Since I already had a great selection of the Hornady, I wasn’t about to undertake the wait and enterprise needed to get more from Petersen Cartridge Company. I figured I’d make due with what I had on hand.
The 7 PRC needs the better propellants manufactured today. Many of the older and perhaps more common powders don’t give it quite the push it needs to awaken this ballistic monster. With Retumbo and H1000 disappearing from the shelves, a serious PRC loader is going to need to look at RL-25 and RL-26 pretty hard. As well as some other magnum powders like N-165 and IMR 7828.
Bigger Bullets
I loaded the 175 ELDM and the larger 183 and 197 Sierra Match Kings using some of those powders over CCI 250 primers to get some fantastic results. The Christensen Ridgeline didn’t have as much room for seating bullets long, but the SRS has an incredibly long action and magazine for such purposes.
And in the past, I have exploited that space to get unbelievable speeds, and I would do the same with the 7 PRC.
My SRS barrel was chambered using an Alpha Munitions reamer that certainly seems cut for the big bullets and longer seating depths. I should also mention that the newer generations of Sierra Match Kings, like the 183 and 197 have extremely long and tapered designs which also allow them to be seated longer than most. This allows for additional powder space for even more velocity and gas volume.
Make sure you use safe and published load data, as handloading is not without its dangers.
FACTORY AMMO USED
For this review, I used two different Hornady loads. The first was the Precision Hunter featuring Hornady’s 175-grain ELD X bullets. The other was a Hornady Match load shooting the 180-grain ELD M bullet.
CONCLUSION
The Hornady 7mm PRC Precision Rifle Cartridge is an outstanding cartridge, if for nothing else than the new specified barrel twist. Sure, you could produce similar results using other cartridges. But it’s also easy to just pick it up as a turn-key system with its high-quality brass supply and selection of fine bullets.
Is it worth upgrading from what you have? That is another question you need to figure out on your own.
If you’ve got a long-action rifle that is in need of a new barrel, this would certainly be on my list of potential candidates. Or if you are shopping for a new hunting rifle or long-range shooter, this would be an excellent choice. And dies are available from Hornady if you are a handloader like myself. Which can certainly offset the cost of expensive new cartridges.
If you need a powerful downrange performer for hunting or long-range plinking, the 7 PRC would surely fill that need. But if you find yourself in a deer stand looking over a couple hundred acres of beans or dry senderos in Texas. Where maybe you can’t see more than a couple hundred yards, the 7 PRC may be much more than you need.
But don’t let that stop you from joining the PRC family.
JP Saueris a manufacturer of fine firearms, with a history that goes back to pre-war Europe. Their firearms are imported to the US market through Blaser, and there is a great assortment of rifles to choose from. Today we will focus on the model 100 Classic, chambered in a classic cartridge the 30-06.
The Model 100 Classic
The Sauer 100 Classic as tested
Unboxing
When I first opened the box, I was unsure what to expect. The Model 100 classic is a traditional style detachable box-fed sixty-degree bolt-action rifle. The exceptionally beautiful wood grain first caught my eye as I dug it from the packaging, my attention quickly turned to the elegant looking action bedded in the walnut. A handsome satin finish and the satisfying cuts and angles of the action seemed very European to me. Sort of reminiscent of a Sako TRG or something similar. It’s a classy look for sure, I wasted no time in feeling the action and trigger to see if they matched the looks of this rifle.
Bolt detail on the Sauer 100
JP Sauer 100 Features
Bolt
The Sauer 100 features a three lug design, but its double-stacked making it actually a six lug bolt. The two layers of three bolt lugs make the throw of the bolt shorter. It only needs to be lifted sixty degrees vs. the ninety degrees that two lug bolts require. This makes the bolt operation faster and easier. The bolt uses a sliding extractor mounted in the bolt-face, as well as double ejectors to firmly throw the spent cartridge cases clear of the action. It also features a bolt-mounted safety that is slightly different than most. The three-position safety is engaged by using your thumb to pull the selector down, where it is locked in place by a button detent. Removing the safety is accomplished by pushing in on the button in the center of the selector. Rolling your thumb out as it pushes the selector forward. The bolt is easily removed by pushing a small button on one side of the bolt handle while pulling the bolt to the rear. The button must be depressed to reinstall the bolt as well.
Magazine and floor-plate detail, note magazine release at front.
Magazine
The JP Sauer 100 features a detachable box magazine that in 30-06holds five rounds. The magazine is made of polymer, as is the follower. The magazine fits snugly to the bottom of the rifle, with almost no room for wobbling around. The release button is just in front of the magazine, and was very easy to release.
So easy in fact that I thought it might be an issue with unintentional magazine releases. But I found that even trying to accidentally hit the button would not release it. I was also impressed with how little force was required to seat the magazine, loaded or not. Just a gentle press would seat the magazine, with a soft clicking sound.
Trigger
The trigger on this rifle was just outstanding, a single stage adjustable trigger with a smooth shoe. My first impression was how light and short it was. I love good triggers whether they be single or two stage. This single stage is immaculate, with no creep at all. The only thing you notice is when it breaks. I tested the pull weight, and it averaged just over a pound and a half. Some may consider it a bit light for a hunting rifle, I do not.
Scope Mounting
Mounting a scope on the rifle seemed a bit sketchy at first, as I feared I would have to use some strange mounting system. But after a little research I was happy to find that the Sauer 100 action uses the same pattern scope mounts as the extremely popular Remington 700. So it was as simple as going to my local shop and picking up a Leupold long action 700 base. I mounted a Nikon Black 4-16X50 scope that I had kicking around in some Warne rings. It turned out to be a good fit, and near perfect height for me.
First things first, only accurate rifles are interesting to me. If a rifle can’t repeatedly shoot sub MOA or preferably sub 1/2 MOA its not one I’d care to keep around. I couldn’t wait to see what kind of accuracy this rifle could deliver with it’s great trigger and some good ammo.
Shooting the JP Sauer 100
The safety selector did take a bit of getting used to. The positioning of it is perfect if your the type of shooter that removes the safety as you bring it up from a carrying hold. If you are already in the shooting position it can be a bit awkward to try and remove the safety. That’s one of the reasons I don’t care for bolt or bolt shroud-mounted safeties. This is a minor detail, as I rarely use safeties much anyways. I prefer to keep an empty chamber until its go time.
The rifle performed what I believe most would consider to be average as far as accuracy, shot groups averaged under an inch. I certainly wouldn’t consider this the best the rifle is capable of. Perhaps if ammo wasn’t quite as scarce I could of found something that shot better.
The ejection pattern of the Sauer is very predictable, throwing spent cases well clear of the action with its double ejectors. And regardless of the speed at which you stroke the bolt.
Pros and Cons
Perhaps the only sincere complaint I could come up with is that the stroke of the bolt is not quite as smooth as I expected it to be. Everything about this rifle is slick and effortless, so I just expected it to be the same. I also have a couple similar rifles like a Sako 85 and a Tikka T3which both have a smoother feeling bolt stroke. Perhaps it is the longer 30-06 cases and the friction they create. But regardless of what the cause is, it is not even close to a dealbreaker to me. I’ve certainly felt worse on more expensive rifles than this.
Final thoughts
I think that JP Sauer has made a fantastic rifle here. While my style of rifle may be completely opposite to this one I found so much about it to be intriguing. Its a handsome rifle that most anyone would be pleased to show, and its function is just as clean as its looks. And it shoots as good as it looks, making nearly everything about it perfect for your next hunting trip.
Depending on your profession, you might call it a battle belt, gun belt, or some other belt variation. Today we are going into the detail of putting together a battle belt, something I recently finished.
As I navigated through all the different options, I figured this might be something others would do, so I documented the process in the hopes of saving you time and money.
Shooting has become part of my profession. While you may or may not need a gun belt for your daily work, I hope that by the time I’m done sharing my experience, you will have a good idea of how you would do it yourself.
Unless you do any professional soldiering, law enforcement, or security, a gun belt will likely be recreational for the most part. It will likely be another part of your equipment when shooting at the range or in competitive events like two or three-gun matches.
I am by no means a competition pistol shooter, but I do enjoy practicing the skill. A proper gun belt is extremely useful for becoming proficient in shooting pistols and any kind of tactical discipline.
WHY USE A BATTLE BELT?
Battle belts are designed to help carry the weight and force of waist-bound shooting equipment. Not only do they carry the weight, but they also help distribute it with a degree of comfort.
A good belt also helps keep vital and life-saving equipment where you want it to be. Besides just your pistol, battle belts also have room for extra ammunition, knives, and other tools you may need depending on the task before you.
A good belt is customizable to fit the accessories and tools you need in the places that best fit your practice. With practice and time, you will likely change and adjust it until it perfectly fits your needs.
FIRST THING: THE ALL-IMPORTANT PISTOL & HOLSTER
Find a quality holster that properly fits your pistol. There are many good options from companies like Safariland or Blackhawk.
Remember, these are not CCW holsters; they are for retaining your pistol under heavy movement and activity.
Good retention holsters are not exactly cheap, nor are they particularly compact. But they are well worth their cost and come in various styles and retention designs to keep your pistol safely at your side.
SELECT A BELT
There are a great many good choices to be had for a gun belt. Safariland and Blackhawk make belts for their holsters, but there are plenty of others like Blue Force Gear or Crye Precision.
With so many options, you may want to handle a couple before choosing one. After looking around, I decided to go with a 1.75-inch belt from the guys at Lead Devil.
There are two-layered and single-layered belts. I went with a two layered belt. They work by using a velcro under the belt that goes through your belt loops on your pants. The outer belt then attaches outside your belt loops by velcro to the inner belt and buckle in the front. It is a very robust system.
The outer belt has molle loops around the circumference to install whatever accessories or gear to the belt and the inner belt keeps your pants up and serves as a foundation for the load-bearing outer belt.
When selecting a belt, follow the manufacturer’s instructions on measuring yourself. A proper fit is vital to both function and comfort. Remember the size of your belt when selecting accessories. You can’t put 1.5-inch accessories on a 1.75-inch belt. The belt should fit fairly snug to keep your pistol and other gear from flopping around as you move.
Note: wearing a gun belt properly may be all the inspiration you need to get in better shape. They fit and work better when your “middle area” is trimmed.
Obviously, the first priority should be your holster. Find a comfortable position on your belt that fits your draw location and attach the holster, either threading the belt through it or using the molle attachments.
I found it took some time to ensure I had my holster placed properly.
My pistol is a Sig Sauer P320 X5 Legion, and I bought the Safariland 7304RDS holster for it. The holster accepts both the pistol and the Surefire X300 weapon light in front, but after using the holster for a few days, I realized I needed a lower ride height.
I added a Safariland Cantable belt loop that added a few inches of drop, and I also added to it the Safariland Quick Locking System that allows the holster to detach from its base. I’ve come to find this very convenient.
The whole pistol and holster are easily removed from the belt. This also allows you to swap multiple holsters for different firearms to and from your belt. I adjusted the thigh strap that came with my holster for a better fit and to keep the holster as secure as possible.
Believe it or not, I actually wore the belt like this eight hours a day for over a month, making little adjustments here and there until I felt I had a perfect fit. I was constantly drawing my pistol to see what would make a smoother draw and holstering.
MAGAZINE POUCHES
A good battle belt will surely carry extra magazines for your pistol. I bought a couple of different options to try. The first was a pair of Tacos from High Speed Gear. I liked them, but I ended up swapping them out for a one-piece double mag pouch from Esstac. The HSG Tacos seemed to have more catch points and were easier to snag on things during movement. The Esstac pouches were smoother and had a nice exterior.
Position your mag pouches where they best fit your draw. This is another reason I like the Lead Devil belt. The molle allowed robust attachment of my accessories without sacrificing velcro engagement with the inner belt. Reducing the velcro engagement between the belt layers reduces the rigidity of the whole system and induces flopping.
If you incorporate a rifle mag pouch or two on your belt, you can attach it the same way via molle in whatever position you see fit. I run my rifle mags on my plate carrier, so I didn’t add any to my gun belt.
SHARP EDGES
Many guys put knives on their gun belts, whether for cutting tasks or when they run outta magazines. I actually run two knives on my belt; the main one is aCold Steel Mini Tac.
The second one is just a cheap Gerber folder hooked into the molle behind my holster for things like digging sardines out of the can. I like the idea of having both options, one blade is kept in pristine razor sharp condition while the other is a day to day cutter.
Both are kept in convenient locations on the belt for quick and easy access, they also attach to the molle of the Lead Devil outer belt.
FLASHLIGHT
Besides the X300 on my pistol, I also keep a good flashlight on my belt. The Cloud Defensive MCH 2.0 Micro goes in a small 5.11 carry pouch behind my right kidney. I don’t often shoot in the dark, but if I need to, I sure want to have the tools to see what I’m shooting.
TOURNIQUET
A tourniquet is a must-have if you do any shooting. We’ve all seen how fast things can get ugly. Plate carriers and battle belts are often kitted out with tourniquets; the main reason is that they are typically used by folks who shoot and may get shot at.
Having a tourniquet immediately available can be the difference between life and death. Many professional soldiers getting shot at have multiple TQs on their kit, and they have them close.
I have one in my IFAK (Individual First Aid Kit) on my plate carrier, and I keep another one attached to my gun belt just in front of my holster. This way, it is very close should I need to use it on myself or some other unfortunate person.
It’s kept neat and tucked away by a 5.11 TQ pouch.
DROP POUCH
Drop pouchesare also a common accessory to run on gun belts. They are typically used as a catch-all for things you need out of your hands quickly but don’t want to lose. Empty magazines, batteries, or Twinkie wrappers can all get tossed in to be policed later.
I personally don’t run a drop pouch on my belt because I have one on my plate carrier. The one I have is a roll-up velcro type to stay out of the way until you need it.
TETHER
Lastly, I have a 550 cord braided tether on my left side. It has a snap hook convenient for gloves, keys, or anything else you want to keep handy. It also can be unwoven and used as cordage in an emergency.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
DOES A BATTLE BELT GO THROUGH BELT LOOPS?
Some battle belts go through belt loops, and others go outside the belt loops. I prefer the two-layered outside-the-belt loop type with an inner strap that goes through the belt loops.
HOW TIGHT SHOULD A BATTLE BELT BE?
A belt should be tight enough to keep your equipment secure and close without being uncomfortably tight. The better shape you are in, the more comfortable they seem to fit. I do find that the wider belt seems more comfortable for guys like me who are a little round in the middle.
HOW MUCH WEIGHT DOES A BATTLE BELT HOLD?
That can depend on how you set it up. Some belts come wide, and with padded load-bearing surfaces, a good belt is undoubtedly strong enough that you could be picked up by it.
CONCLUSION
If you’re a gear queer like me, you will likely enjoy the process of putting all this together. I hope what I have done has shed some light or given you ideas for your own belt build.
I would strongly recommend doing what I did if you can; for the better part of two months, I wore my gun belt every day to work. This allowed me to make adjustments for comfort and practical use, adjusting the angle of my holster, and so on. The familiarity I gained from wearing the belt for such a long time made me very comfortable using the system at the range.
Don’t be afraid to try different belt accessories to find the one that fits your needs best, and if you have any questions about the subject, feel free to drop them in the comment section.
Make sure you share your battle belt build with us when you finish it, and share this with your gun buddies!
