I love pistols, and I am one of those who tends to prefer red dot optics on my pistols. It would seem that I am not the only one, as there is an unbelievable amount of pistols available with an optics cut. With more and more options it is quickly becoming the norm. But what about those pistols that don’t accept optics? Are they doomed to be shot forever using only the sights? Today I am documenting my experience in; Does your pistol need an optics cut? We’ll walk you through the process of turning a featureless slide, into an optics ready roscoe.
Machining Slides
As I mentioned, optics cut slides on semi-automatic pistols have become very common. So common in fact that I frequently joke with Glock owners about having to have their slides machined to fit.
But obviously there is a demand for it, and one of the many companies doing it is C&H Precision out of Georgia. I have been familiar with C&H for some time, having seen some their products like their in-house branded red dot sights and their optics mounting adaptor plates. I suppose they had enough demand for machining cuts into pistols, that they started offering the service. And since they offered me a discounted service, I figured I would give it a try.
the pistol I chose to have altered is the Zro Delta FKS 9, a clone of the very popular Glock 19
The Process
I’ll admit that I was grossly unaware of how many options there were in this process. But luckily they had a nice step by step system that walks you though everything. First of all you select the pistol brand to be cut, I chose a Glock because I had a clone than needs a red dot.
Footprint
You can then select what type of optic or more specifically what footprint to use. There is also an option for using Zev threaded posts if you like, as well as if you’d like a cover plate for when the optic is not used. I opted for the Trijicon RMR cut, as I have several red dots with that pattern.
Sights
They will ask if you plan on removing your sights prior to shipping, or if you would prefer they remove them (for a fee). They also give you the option of upgrading sights while they are off with a couple different options.
You can also choose to have the rear sight machined out and a new dovetail cut in front of your red dot if you prefer that look.
Cerakote
Custom Cerakote options are also available, with something as simple as having the raw cut steel coated or a whole custom job. This gives you the choice of various patterns and looks, of course there is an added cost but that should be expected.
Expedited Service
Rush orders can also be done, for a fee. And duty weapons also get the expedited service. And there are a few other parts upgrade options you can have done while your slide is disassembled.
The Results
After I shipped my slide off to C&H, I received an email a few days later confirming receipt and the services I asked to be performed. Once that was confirmed, a simple payment was made online. And a few days later I got a shipping notification.
When I opened the box, I was quite pleased at the look of my slide. As far as I could tell, it appeared the slide had always had an optics cut. Nearly indistinguishable from something done from the factory. I wasted no time reassembling the pistol, and installing an Apex Optics Atom red dot (an RMR pattern).
The footprint fit very snug, in a good way. Both the screws also fit tightly in their threaded bores. This made for a very good coupling, and a secure feeling that the red dot isn’t going anywhere.
My Conclusion
I am quite happy with this service to be honest. And I must say I am impressed with the quality finish and the quick service and communication. I guess I’ll quit making jokes to guys for sending off their pistols to get an optics cut. As it seems quite the quick turnaround and well worth it. There are plenty of other outfits that also offer the service, so do what works for you. As for C&H Precision, I can strongly recommend it to those interested.
The AR15 rifle has become the most popular and widely adapted rifle in the US. Countless variants of the rifle are available from innumerable manufacturers. Its original direct impingement design that is still used by many manufacturers pushes high pressure gas from the barrel directly into the action. As suppressors become more and more common, more folks are finding issue with the design. Suppressors add backpressure, and that means even more obnoxious gas being pushed into the action and your face. Our topic today is the Breek Arms Omni-Buster charging handle. A new product designed to reduce the gas blowback into your face while shooting.
Charging Handle Design
DI charging handles have a hook shape at the front that allows the bolt carrier to be drawn to the rear. There is a hole in the front, where the gas tube that pipes the pressure directly into the bolt-carrier.
One of the many causes of unpleasant gas in the face is caused when the bolt carrier begins its reaward movement. As it disconnects from the gas tube, whatever remaining gas flow continues out the gas tube. Which is shot right down the upper receiver and into the face of the shooter. As I mentioned, adding a suppressor only exacerbates this problem.
The Omni-Buster
Breek’s Omni-Buster charging handle is designed to reduce this flow of gas into the shooter’s face. Using different geometry on the charging handle optimized for reducing the gas coming at you.
This is done with several different design features; inside the stem of the charging handle, scalloped cuts are made that work like baffles in a suppressor to slow the movement of gas. And the stem itself is shaped to reduce gas flow coming at the shooter, feeling a slightly tighter fit as well. Additionally, the raised shelf at the back also closes space where gas traditionally would flow out towards the shooter.
the Omni-Buster shown next to a competitors charging handle
It does all this while offering oversized dual handles that lock the charging handle when not in use. The two handles are interlocking with each other, to actuate the locking jaw. This also keeps the tolerancances tight to prevent gas flow through the assembly.
But Does it work?
I do a lot of shooting, and most of it is done outdoors with not a particularly high cadence. With that kind of shooting practice, I usually don’t have a problem getting gassed out. I have noticed that I dont really need low backpressure suppressor designs in these scenarios. So in order to actually see if the Omni-Buster works, I would have to change it up a little bit.
With the rifle suppressed, I would swap between charging handles before shooting some long strings of fire. Different suppressors also create different amount of back pressure, so that was part of the shooting as well. And shooting indoors would inhibit natural air currents from taking gas away, which would make it easier to notice differences. For the most part, we used the same ammunition. But that too could vary the amount and volume of gas noticed by the shooter.
After shooting quite a bit using the Omni-Buster, I can say I definitely like it. Not only for its tight fit and reduction in gas coming in my face, but also because of the large handles. Overall it felt like there was less fumes coming out of the rifle in my face while shooting. And depending on who you are and your shooting practice, even a small reduction might be worth the upgrade.
Particularly for those who shoot suppressed direct impingement rifles, this seems like a worthy upgrade. Improving the overall experience while shooting. The Omni-Buster seems to be an even better improvement over Breek’s previous designs. Its not going to completely stop the issue of gas in the face. I’m not sure that anything truly can without changing the rifle and how it works. But little improvements are how we eventually reach perfection.
When I first started down this rifleman’s path, like many others I found myself lusting over the high power long-range rifle scopes. It never fails, whether in media or our daydreaming that we think of a big powerful sniper scope filled with all the bells and whistles you can imagine. But is all that necessary? I’ve been down that road a few times now, and I can tell you about it.
Large Magnification
Many long-range optics are higher magnification, like 6-24, 5-25, or even beyond 5-30 power. While there is nothing wrong with these scopes, and I have quite a few of them, some folks seem to think that these scopes are going to make them more accurate at long-range shooting. While not wholly untrue, it certainly is problematic for those who think a big scope will make all the difference.
3-18 power scopes offer excellent diverse settings for hunting rifles like this AR15
I have done a significant amount of long-range shooting using what many would consider low magnification scopes. Keep in mind that barely a generation ago, a straight 10X scope was used by many military and law enforcment snipers. I myself have shot many targets at as far away as a thousand yards with as little as 6 or 8 power scopes.
Another thing I have noticed about all scopes, is the dimming effect when they are at maximum magnification. The image looses some of its sharpness and detail.
You’d be very surprised just how much you can get done with less magnification, but why would you want to? Lets get into that…
Why a 3-18 You Ask?
Larger scopes like the ones I mentioned above are often bigger, heavier, and have 50-plus millimeter objective lenses. This means they have to be mounted higher above the bore. It also makes the overall profile of the rifle larger.
One of my favorite scope sizes is the 3-18 range of scopes. They are usually shorter in length than bigger scopes, and they can also be mounted closer to the bore. And often they will have 50mm or smaller objectives.
3-18X offers both wide angle viewing for close encounters or locating targets, while also offering enough power to articulate precise shots on even distant targets
Also, as I am mainly a hunter, I like having the low power option. If I am sneaking through a forest looking for targets, its nice to back off the power to as low as 3X. Making it much faster to acquire a moving target, especially at closer ranges. And should I need to shoot an animal that is way out there, 18X is still plenty of magnification to cleanly see and take a shot. I often find that regardless of what magnification scope I have, I most frequently shoot no more than 14-16X anyways.
Suggestions
I have several 3-18 power scopes, all of which I can strongly recommend. Which one simply depends on your taste and budget. All of them are FFP, which is certainly my preference. There are many other features worth looking at too.
Sadly, I dont find the GLX available many places anymore. They still sell the SLX but it is a 50mm objective. One of the reasons I love the GLX is because of its 44mm objective that allows me to keep the scope low, and the overall rifle compact. It is built on a 34mm tube which gives a lot of erector movement within the scope.
The locking 10-MIL turrets and zero-stop on this scope make it great for hunting. Sadly, it only locks secure in the zero position. The reticle might be a touch busy for some, and I have other preferences myself, but its still very useful. Its throw lever makes it quick to adjust, and its parallax and illumination make it adaptable to various purposes. At just under $500 these are a great affordable option.
the GLx has done extremely well on every rifle I’ve put it on. This custom 10/22 you see on my Two Vets Tripod is just one of many
For just a little bit more, you can also get the Vector Optics Continental 3-18X50. This 34mm tubed scope has a slightly larger objective, but also gathers more light. It also has locking 10-MIL turrets, with a zero-stop. It also has a rotation indicator pin to help you keep track of what revolution of the turret you are one. The turrets on these scopes are among my favorites.
Optically the Continentals are also very good for the price, giving a very sharp and bright image. The reticle of the Continental is also very useful for various tasks, and it is illuminated too. It also has added values like included sunshade and rings.
Moving up in price a little more, is the US Optics TXH 3-18X50. This one retails for just under $750, but if you use my discount code you can save 15%. The TXH is also built on a 34mm tube, and has the larger 50mm objective. Like the previous mentioned scopes, this one is also pretty short by comparison to other long-range optics. Making it a good candidate for a small precision rifle. This scope has been used on a dozen or more rifles in my collection, jumping from gun to gun. Its definitely durable and can stand up to heavy use.
the TXH is often at home on my Desert Tech WLVRN, which is also constantly changing calibers
Again I am a big fan of the turrets on this scope, the outer ring of the turret locks up and down to prevent unwanted movement. And you get 10-MIL per revolution of the scope, with sharp audible clicks. An easily set zero-stop is also a nice addition. You can read the complete review of the TXH here.
Various reticle options give you a little bit of choice with the US Optics TXH, which you don’t get with the previous two scopes. And the reticle can be sharply focused with the parallax adjustment, all the way down to 10 yards. It can also be illuminated for low light conditions.
the TXH has proven very useful at long-range, making a perfect shot on this mule deer at 500 yards. Read all about the hunt here
Starting at around $1999, the Mark 5 3.6-18X44 from Leupold is a significant step up in price. That should be expected as big names draw big prices. I love the size of this scope, it is likely the most compact of all the scopes mentioned today. A must have if you are going for the smallest footprint. This scope is built on a 35mm tube, just enough different from the norm to be irritating. And requiring some different mounting options.
But like the others, the Mark 5 uses 10-MIL turrets that lock on zero. It does feature an indicating pin on top of the turret to let you know which rotation you are on, which is very handy. It also has a variety of reticle options, some of which greatly increase the price. There are both illuminated and non-illuminated reticle options, and again the price change is significant.
Other things like included throw-lever and capped windage turret make it stand out a little bit. I understand this scope is popular with law enforcement as a compact sniper rifle scope. To read all my thoughts on this scope you can read the review here.
Starting around $2600, the Kahles 318i is at the top of my list. It brings the highest quality out of those mentioned, with a long history of quality service. Like most of the others it is built on a 34mm tube, and they opted for a 50mm objective. Despite it not having the 44mm size, it is still very compact, only a fraction of an inch longer than the Leupold.
The turret design on the Kahles uses 16-MIL per rotation, needing only two turns. On top of the elevation turret is the indicator pin that lets you know which rotation the turret is on. The windage turret is on the left side of the scope, which makes it easier to operate with your non-shooting hand while targeting.
The parallax adjustement ring is right under the elevation turret, and adjustable down to 25 yards. The new Kahles turrets feature a spinning outer ring, to avoid inadvertent movement of the turret, a nice feature that works well. The various reticle options can be illuminated by a variable brightness knob on the right side of the housing.
Exceptional clarity and brighness can be expected from these scopes. As well as sharp tracking and durability. For my whole opinion about this scope, read the review here.
Honorable Mention
Perhaps becaus of its cost, the Kahles would likely be the last one of these scopes to leave my collection. But I do love the scope, so its not just about the price. It gives outstanding views and rock solid performance.
Besides that, I think the Vector might be the overall best buy. I think it gives the best optical performance of the cheaper priced options mentioned (albeit a small margin). And it brings excellent mechanical performance and features. Though its Chinese origin is a deterrent for many. Of course if you use my discount code at checkout, the TXH is pretty close in cost, and you get a more reputable name from a US manufacturer.
Last Thoughts
There is nothing wrong with the higher magnification scopes, I use them almost daily. Just keep in mind that lower power scopes can be just as useful, and perhaps even better depending on the application. Its not lost on me that there is some cost involved, and if you are going to spend a significant amount of money, you might want to go for the max. I get that, and have done it myself.
Perhaps it is with some affluence in ones gun collection that he can afford to diversify both guns and scopes in such a way. If so, I recommend you aim for that. Lets get out of here before I start in on 4-16X’s….
Do you need match ammunition? What is match ammunition? And is that more important than matching ammunition? These are all good questions and today we intend on getting some answers to them. To help you avoid overspending on ammunition as well as getting the results you want out of the ammunition you buy, we’ll dive into what makes for the best ammunition.
Different components create different results
Match Ammunition
Before we get too deep, let make sure we understand what we are talking about. Match ammunition is typically ammunition loaded for precision competitors. It varies some from one manufacturer to another, but essentially it is ammunition made with a high level of consistency. High quality components are often used as well to increase consistency and performance. Things like uniformity and steady ignition patterns are sought after in match ammunition.
Accuracy is simply consistent performance that allows you to anticipate impact loacation
Uniformity and consistency are what makes accurate ammunition, particularly from one lot number to another. Consistency means the next shot is very likely to do what the last shot did, allowing you to anticipate where it will go.
High quality components and the equipment and the manufacturing practices that make consistency possible are often more expensive. This usually translates to match ammunition costing a bit more than other ammunition types.
some components cost more than others, but that doesn’t always translate to better performance in YOUR firearm
Matching Ammunition?
When I say matching ammunition you might wonder what I’m talking about, let me explain. Every rifle is a little different than the next one, even two consecutive rifles off a production line. Due to the tiny intricacies of each firearm and the way it was manufactured, one rifle might have a taste for one ammunition selection over another. Your rifle might like 150 grain bullets and mine might like 165 grain bullets.
testing different ammunition sources until you find the best performing option might actually save you money
Modern manufacturing has greatly reduced inconsistencies from one firearm to the next, but you can still often see this anomaly between firearms. And the higher the price tag for certain firearms often means they are less susceptible to this phenomenon. What that means is; just because your favorite ammunition shot great in one rifle, doesn’t always mean it will shoot good in another.
I have found it key to try many different ammo options with some firearms in order to find one that shoots best. And that might not always be the match selection. I’ve also seen plenty of people buy some super expensive hunting ammo thinking it gives them an advantage. When in fact their rifle doesn’t shoot it well, and they end up having accuracy issues. They might of been better off shooting some cheap Remington Core-Lokt had they checked. And an accurate shot is more important than a specialized one, read more about that topic here.
whether you are hunting or sport shooting, the cheaper option might be just as good or better. Our youngest hunter in the family took this, his first buck shooting handloaded Sierra Match King X bullets from a Browning X-Bolt 2.
Matching ammunition refers to matching the best shooting ammo to your rifle. That might be some quality match grade ammo, or it might be some inexpensive Hornady Whitetail. And once you’ve found what shoots most accurately, you can match those choices to the shooting activity you choose.
The Right Application
Once upon a time, I had a nice little Savage model 10 in 308 Winchester. I used the rifle for many things including hunting varmints in the mountains and deserts of the west. The rifle shot amazing when loaded with 168 Sierra Match Kings, or Federal Gold Medal Match ammunition. Usually half MOA or better was normal for this rifle. But feeding it expensive ammo like that got old quick. As it turns out the rifle also shot Hornady 150 grain Interlock bullets just as well. And after some testing, I found the much cheaper option to be more applicable for shooting ground hogs.
That old Savage and I made some great shots, like this one from 1000 yards
You can exercise the same diligence in your own shooting, regardless of what rifle or cartridge it shoots. You might find a cheap alternative to the expensive one you are used to. And whether you are shooting coyotes or Dall Sheep, we all like spending less money. And spending less allows you to shoot more which should improve your skills and make you a better shooter.
Tuning
Handloaders know about tuning ammunition to best fit the rifle its made for. If you don’t handload, you can still tune your rifle using things such as muzzle devices to alter performance. The whole idea is match your rifle with the best performing ammunition supply, whether that be match ammo or not.
tuning your own ammo is the best way to match your rifle
Long-range shooting often demands the higher quality bullets used in match ammunition. So if you intend on pushing distance limits you might have fewer choices. But if you are simply talking about accuracy inside the typical three to four hundred yards that most people shoot at, your options are much more plentiful.
make sure you pick a good load for the distances you plan on shooting. This 300PRC loaded with Barnes LRX is good for quite a long distance
The Verdict
In the relentless search for the best performance for our hard earned money, don’t forget to check the easy options. Don’t assume that the best ammunition for your rifle is the most expensive stuff. I often mention my guilty pleasure of producing expensive results with cheap equipment, a practice I learned doing exactly this process. You too might find you can get fantastic performance from inexpensive components.
-CBM
top quality equipment like these dies from Redding help make better ammunition
Stretching an AR-15 past 300 yards on prairie dogs this spring sounds ambitious. True — but not crazy. The platform has come so far that varmint hunting at real long range is practical now, not just some YouTube fantasy. Still, you can’t bolt a Vortex onto a stock Ruger AR-556 and expect half-MOA groups at 400 yards. Doesn’t work like that. Every component matters — barrel, trigger, optic, ammo. Let’s see what actually moves the needle when you’re building an AR for precision small game work at distance.
What You Need to Know About the AR-15 Rifle
The AR-15 is not a single rifle. It’s a system — and that distinction matters way more for precision shooting than people realize. So, you need to know how the AR-15 rifle works to make the most of it for varmint shooting. Here’s where most guys go wrong first. Factory AR-15s ship with mil-spec triggers breaking at 6-8 pounds. Heavy. Gritty. Completely wrong for careful shot placement at range. Drop in a Geissele SSA-E or a LaRue MBT-2S, and you’ll wonder why you waited. Cheapest meaningful upgrade you can make.
Next up — the handguard. Free-floated rail, non-negotiable. When your barrel touches the handguard anywhere, harmonics go sideways, and groups open up. Aero Precision and Midwest Industries both sell solid free-float setups. Now, something people overlook: the AR-15’s direct impingement gas system actually helps accuracy. Sure, gas pistons — like on an HK MR556 — cut fouling. Yet DI vents gas straight through the bolt carrier, meaning less mechanical movement while the round fires. For varmint hunting specifically, where you shoot from stable positions at tiny targets, that consistency edge compounds over an afternoon. Finally, modularity. No other platform lets you swap uppers in thirty seconds — .223 coyote rig to a 6.5 Grendel setup. That flexibility is why the AR owns this space.
Caliber Selection for Long-Range Varmint Work
Caliber choice will make or break you out past 300. Period. Under 300 yards, .223 Remington handles prairie dogs and groundhogs just fine. Cheap, low-recoil, available at every Walmart in America. Beyond that, though… The round bleeds velocity fast, and wind drift gets ugly with lightweight 55-grain pills.
So what do you actually run? The .224 Valkyrie deserves a serious look. Federal built it for long-range AR work, and the 90-grain Sierra MatchKing load stays supersonic past 1,000 yards. Overkill for ground squirrels at 500? Maybe. But that flat trajectory makes first-round connections on small targets way easier. Meanwhile, 6.5 Grendel gives you heavier bullets with strong ballistic coefficients — plus enough thump to drop coyotes cleanly. Also worth knowing — barrel life varies across these calibers. The .224 Valkyrie eats barrels faster than Grendel, noticeably quicker than .223. Naturally, if you’re doing high-volume prairie dog shoots — 200 rounds in one sitting — factor that in before committing to a caliber.
Barrel Upgrades That Actually Matter
Not every barrel upgrade is worth your money. Some are. Knowing the difference saves you hundreds of dollars and a lot of frustration. Start with barrel length. For most varmint calibers, 18 to 20 inches hits the sweet spot between velocity and portability. Go shorter, and you leave real fps on the table. Conversely, past 20 inches with .223, diminishing returns kick in, and you’re hauling dead weight.
Twist rate matters too — more than most shooters realize. A 1:8 twist covers the widest range of bullet weights in .223. However, heavy-for-caliber stuff in .224 Valkyrie needs 1:6.5 or 1:7 to keep those long 90-grain bullets stable. Criterion and Bartlein both make outstanding aftermarket options. On material — stainless steel beats chrome-moly for pure accuracy. The tradeoff is durability; chrome-moly holds up longer under sustained fire. For varmint hunting, where precision matters more than barrel life in tens of thousands of rounds, go stainless.
Optics and Scope Setup
Glass matters more than the rifle itself. Yeah — hot take. Still true. For work past 300 yards, grab a variable-power scope in the 4-16x or 6-24x range. The Vortex Viper PST Gen II and Athlon Ares BTR both deliver without requiring a second mortgage. At those distances, though, magnification alone does not cut it — you need turrets that track and repeat.
this 6.5 Grendel rifle was unstoppable with the US Optics FDN17X on it
First focal plane holds the edge because your reticle scales with magnification, keeping holdover marks accurate at every power setting. The second focal plane works too — but only if you dial a set magnification before using subtensions. Otherwise? Your holds are off. MOA or MRAD — pick one, learn it properly. In practice, MRAD pairs better with metric-based ballistic calculators, and most competitive long-range guys have gone that direction already. Yet plenty of accurate shooters run MOA without a single issue.
Besides parallax adjustment — don’t sleep on it. Past 400 yards, even a slight parallax error shifts your impact enough to miss a prairie dog entirely. Accordingly, check that your scope’s parallax knob dials low enough. Some budget glass bottoms out at 50 yards, which is useless for this kind of work.
Fine-Tuning Ammunition and Loads
Everything upstream — barrel, trigger, optic — only hits its potential when the right ammo feeds through it. Before you touch a reloading press, try factory match loads. Hornady V-MAX and Federal Premium’s Nosler Ballistic Tip offerings are proven. Test at least three loads in your specific rifle. Seriously — two guns off the same line can prefer completely different ammo. That’s barrels being barrels. Essentially, no two are identical. Handloading takes things further, though. Consistent charges weighed on a digital scale (not thrown volumetrically), proper brass prep, and careful seating depth work can shrink a 1-MOA rifle to half-MOA. Specifically, the Redding Type-S bushing die set earns every penny if you’re chasing sub-MOA consistency. Brass lot consistency gets overlooked constantly. Mixing cases from different production runs introduces volume variations that change pressure and velocity shot to shot. Consequently, even a 15 fps spread shows on paper at 400 yards. Therefore, keep your brass sorted by lot number — no exceptions, no shortcuts.
The Bottom Line
Building a precision AR isn’t about buying the most expensive parts. Your job here is to make the right parts work together. Get the right trigger, barrel, optic, and ammo, and 400-yard prairie dogs become routine. And you won’t need a $4,000 custom build, either. Smart upgrades for varmint hunting in the right order are what you should focus on — not throwing money at cool stuff from r/longrange.
Do hunters need a self-defense option? I mean, a deer rifle is a pretty good tool to confront a threat. Today we are going to take a look at self defense while hunting, because the act of hunting might involve a bow, or a rimfire hunting weapon. And hunting activities are usually done in wild places, where we are often not the only predator. We’ll take a look at some of the reasons a person might want additional self-defense tools when hunting or even fishing. I know from experience that with noise of a running creek can allow you to unknowingly get dangerously close to some animals.
In the Wild
Perhaps you, like me learned to be prepared as a youth before going into nature. Many of us don’t even leave the bedroom without at least a pocket knife or something more. As hunters, we spend a great deal of time outside, and very often in places that are isolated and remote. The game we pursue tends to be in the wilder parts of our world, and when we enter those area there is some risk involved. Anything from frostbite to bear bites could be a reality. Just like we prepare our equipment for the act of hunting, we should also prepare for our survival. That could be granola bars and a map, but in wild places it can also include tools for defending yourself.
A Typical CCW
For those of you out there who daily conceal carry, self defense is already something you do on a day-to-day basis. So adding your carry pistol to your hunting routine is an easy transition. If you are hunting in the flooded forests of the south, the danger could come from snakes or alligators. Whereas if you are hunting the alpine peaks of the Rockies, the danger could be from Grizzly bears or mountain lions. A typical CCW pistol like a Glock 43 or 19, might be perfectly adequate for certain situations. An aggressive cougar for example might be dispatched with a 9mm defensive round. And pistols designed for concealed carry often give you good ammunition capacity.
good Glock clones like this PSA Dagger are also suitable
Running into aggressive cougars whether two or four-legged is likely about all I would use a typical 9mm carry gun for. If I was going into a place with larger predators like bears or big gators, I would want something more.
Big Autos
I carried a Glock 29 for a little bit, a compact 10mm auto that carried quite the punch. I also spent some time behind a Smith and Wesson M&P 9 chambered in 10mm. Guns like these carry more power for defending against larger threats, with some loads often carrying double the energy on target as a typical 9mm. The M&P particularly was very nice to shoot, and carried 17+ rounds, which could ruin most anyone’s day when applied.
For all the 1911 guys out there, this is also your chance to put the .45ACP into use. The heavy bullets of the 45 also offer some additional stopping power. I would look at something like the Sig Sauer 1911 Ultra compact, for easy portability that won’t get in the way. These autos offer an increase in power without giving up autoloaders ammunition capacity.
Revolvers
Americans have a love affair with revolvers, and this is one area where they certainly shine. The only demerit you might give revolvers is their limited capacity when compared to an autoloader. But there is no question that a big revolver is potent medicine for defense against predators of all kinds. When I hunt the extremely remote Kootenai forests, I rarely go without a good pistol. I really like the Smith and Wesson 629 in .44 Magnum, as it provides ample power. As the darkness surrounds you up there, with wolves, Grizzly bears and other hungry predators, the heavy steel against your side feels reassuring.
I also am a big fan of Ruger’s Super Redhawk Alaskan. Whether it be in .44 Magnum, .454 Casull, or .480 Ruger, it is bound to put big holes in your target. The Alaskan model while still quite robust, is small enough to easily carry while fishing a river, or hiking through forests.
A pair of Super Redhawks, note fluted cylinder of .44 Mag model
You certainly don’t need to go heavy either. There are plenty of good revolvers that are suitable for self-defense that are light weight and powerful as well. The Ruger SP101 and LCR are much smaller than the large frame pistols I mentioned above. And chambered in .357 Magnum or .38 Special they still offer some stout energy on target.
Ammunition Application
Depending on the type of country you are in, you should select proper ammunition for your defense. Whether it be shotshells for snakes,hollow-points for your autoloader, or hard-cast lead or solids for your revolver. Ensure that the ammunition you bring along is adequate for your potential assailant.
So you’ve decided to try bear hunting, a popular big game hunting option in many states. Archery is a popular option, but we are gun people here, so our focus today will be on some good firearm choices for bears. Today we are going to take a look at bear hunting, and what kind of firearm you might select for your first bear hunt.
Bear Hunting Approaches
Depending on where you live, bear hunting can be done in a variety of ways. Some folks do the traditional spot and stalk, while others use bait stations or pursue them with hounds. My experience is mainly spot and stalk, but we’ll look at all the various options.
Spot and stalk bear hunting can take place in thick wooded forests, or in open mountain canyons. And depending on the type of bruin you are after, you might need some serious firepower. Black bears typically can be hunted with the same rifles and calibers you typically hunt deer with. While brown bears might require a bit more energy and penetration, think like a moose or elk rifle. The distances you anticipate shooting from will also have a great deal to do with cartridge selection.
Baiting bears into a shooting position gives you a much more predictable scenario. Typical shots to a bait station aren’t as far as spot and stalk, which makes cartridge selection a little easier. You also can anticipate the bear’s approach and estimated location for when the shot is taken.
If you are lucky, this could be your view when chasing bears
Another very popular form of bear hunting is using hounds. Regardless of terrain, the hounds catch the scent of a bear, and when it’s done right, the bear ends up in a tree. Once the bear is treed, the hounds keep it there until the hunters catch up. Shooting a bear from a tree is usually not a very far shot, and could even be done using a handgun if desired.
Pistol Calibers
If you find yourself shooting at a treed bear, rest assured it isn’t a grizzly bear. Taking a Grizzly out of the equation, there are plenty of good options for handguns. A .44 Magnum is always safe bet, it has plenty of power for quickly subduing a black bear. You could also likely use something smaller like a .357 Magnum or my favorite the .41 Remington Magnum. Any of these cartridges I would want loaded with heavy and hard hitting bullets.
Big hollow-points like 240 grain for the .44, or something like a 210 grain hollow-point for the .41 Mag would be suitable. And the .357 loaded to the gills with something like a 170 or 180 grain bullet would also be adequate. Not only because these bullet selections will work when needed, but also because if you are in bear country it’s nice to have that thang on you. Several of these calibers would do well in one of the Ruger Redhawk or Super Redhawks.
Another appealing feature of these pistol calibers is they are often chambered in popular lever-action rifles. A quick shooting lever-gun would be handy for taking a bear from a tree with great accuracy. Something like my Winchester 94 375 Winchester would certainly do the trick.
When shooting from a ground or tree blind over bait, you are more likely to have the upper hand on the bear. This can allow you some dexterity in cartridge selection. For example, threading a perfect shot on an unsuspecting black bear could be properly done using something small like a .243 Winchester. I know where there is an old Ruger M77 chambered in .243 that would be perfect for this. Whereas if you anticipate shooting through big boned shoulders or brown bears, you will definitely want something bigger.
A 308 Winchester shooting typical big game bullets is plenty of medicine for a black bear, particularly up close. If you plan to shoot something much bigger like a brown bear, you would be much better suited with a magnum. Whether it be a 7mm of sorts, or one of the many thirty-caliber magnums. If I was after a Grizzly I’d perhaps even go bigger just to be safe. Obviously overkill is a bit of a myth, so you could use these on small bears as well. A safe bet for heavy hitting cartridges would be a classic rifle like the Winchester Model 70 Pre-64 in .338 Winchester Magnum.
Spot and stalking bears is my favorite way of hunting them. The open country of the west were we hunt them can certainly test your patience and stamina. That being the case I like carrying a lighter rifle, especially if I’m going to be on foot for very long. Cartridges with more reach are a good idea in these mountains, I’d like a magnum for this purpose as well. Since I enjoy my 6.5 and 7mm PRC, I’d probably take one of them. A rifle like the Fierce Carbon Rogue would be perfect for something like this.
Stalking often gives you the option of approaching from distance, this can give you the option to stay a safe distance away from these toothy creatures. Your favorite magnum might also come in very handy for a long shot like that. A Seekins Havak in a 300 Magnum would also be an excellent choice for this kind of hunting, with both power and precision.
When Hornady released the 6.5 Creedmoor over a decade ago, it showed great promise with claims of flat trajectory, superior wind deflection, low recoil and many other positive attributes. All this as compared to the extremely common and widely used 308 Winchester. We have all had a great deal of time and experience now to see how the Creedmoor stands up to its purported goal, and today we are going to dive into it.
This Bergara rifle chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor has worked fantastic for us the last few seasons, taking its share of venison
History
The design of the Creedmoor case was based on a few criteria; small enough to feed from short-actions, fit neatly in magazines and provide enough power to propel high ballistic coefficient (BC) bullets to a reasonable speed. Some of you might ask why when there was already well-established cartridges that did just that. The .260 Remington does about the same things as the Creedmoor, but has long fallen by the wayside compared to the 6.5 Creedmoor.
From left: 6.5×55 Swede, .260 Rem, 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5×47 Lapua. You can see why the Creedmoor and X47 cases do well when feeding from box magazines, their shorter cases allow bullets to be seated much further out.
Cartridge designers based the Creedmoor case off the 30 Thompson Center case, and necked it down to .264 with a 30-degree shoulder. The Creedmoor case is a bit shorter than the .260 Remington and the very popular 308 Winchester. This is by design, as it allows room to seat the longer high BC bullets that make the cartridge perform so well. You can shoot the exact same bullets from the .260 Remington, and often at faster velocity. But you’ll also have a hard time getting them to fit and feed from a box magazine.
Perhaps just as important as the Creedmoors performance, was the huge support of the cartridge by Hornady and others. Excellent bullets and ammunition lines of Creedmoor cartridges ensured that people shot the cartridge and quickly learned of its value in shooting.
Let’s Look at the Numbers
Taking a look at the raw numbers of the 6.5 Creedmoor will help shed some light on its success. The Creedmoor case head uses the same .473 bolt-face as many popular cartridges, this would make it easy to chamber all the popular rifles in 6.5 Creedmoor. The maximum SAAMI overall length for the 6.5 Creedmoor is 2.825 inches, only .015 longer than the 308 Winchester. This would make it compatible with the plethora of magazine systems for precision rifles that were designed around the .308.
Creedmoor cartridges fit nicely in most magazines whether they be AICS pattern for competition or factory hunting rifle magazines like this one from a Mossberg Patriot
The capacity of the Creedmoor is slightly less than the .308 Winchester, holding 52 grains versus the 308’s 56 grains. This is likely due to the shorter case. But the Creedmoor has a trick up its sleeve over the 308. Higher BC bullets like those used in the Creedmoor are more efficient. Two bullets with identical ballistic coefficients fired at the same velocity will perform very similar. But a bullet with a higher BC and fired at a higher velocity will do much better on its way to the target.
Semi-automatic rifles like this Desert Tech WLVRN with a 20-inch 6.5 Creedmoor barrel pack an incredible amount of accuracy and firepower in a compact and mobile rifle
The way these numbers actually look from a real world application is like this; Let’s look at two of the most popular precision loads for the 6.5 and 308. The Federal Gold Medal Match 175 grain load has long been the literal gold standard for 308 sharp shooting. And the Hornady Match 140 ELDM is pretty much the equivalent for the Creedmoor. The 308 has a 35 grain weight advantage but it comes with a lower velocity leaving the muzzle at 2600 Feet per second (FPS). The Creedmoor while lighter, starts out a bit faster with a muzzle velocity of 2710FPS. The following graphs show how the 308 has an energy advantage in the first 300 yards, but after that it quickly loses ground to the Creedmoor.
The Creedmoor never loses its velocity advantage, this is due its superior bullet efficiency. And being fired at a higher muzzle velocity, the lighter bullet is easier to get to higher velocities with similar or less powder charges.
The drop of both bullets in inches also shows a clear advantage for the Creedmoor. The 308 requires significantly more corrective elevation at distance. And though I didn’t graph it here, the wind deflection show the same trend. The 6.5 bullets are less affected by wind drift than the larger diameter 308 bullets. And their faster speed and shorter flight time gives the wind less time to affect the 6.5 Creedmoor.
Hint: being at the top of this graph isn’t good
All these numbers are just a fairly broad comparison, and only to the 308 Winchester. If you were to compare the same numbers against a .260 Remington there would be very little difference. The same might be said for the 6.5X55 Swedish Mauser cartridge or the 6.5X47 Lapua. The curves you see here are why some people say the 6.5 Creedmoor gives 300WM ballistics with less recoil than a 308 Win.
Paper Puncher VS. Hunting Cartridge
Many of the 6.5 Creedmoor’s detractors often like to relegate it as a target round only. After looking at the numbers we just went over, it’s laughable when these same folks say something along the lines of “I’d rather hunt with something with more power like the 308.” It would be silly to reduce the Creedmoor to a target round even though it does the job very well. But the same attributes that make it good on the target range make it a good choice for hunters.
Excellent wind deflection and flat, accurate shooting are just as important for competitive shooters. Feeding from a detachable box magazine is more of a sport function than a hunting one, as many hunters still use the simple two or three round top-load magazines. But the Creedmoor does well from either.
Competition rifles like this one chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor from Master Piece Arms do fantastic in precision shooting
We have used the 6.5 Creedmoor many times now for deer and elk hunting. it does a fantastic job putting energy in the right spot. And the excellent bullet selection allows you to choose what you prefer. It might be a bit on the light side for elk hunting, but the Swedes have been using their 6.5 on moose for the last century. And the Creedmoor produces similar if not superior results depending on how they are loaded.
