As suppressors become more and more popular with the shooting public, our options as consumers continue to grow. QD Suppressor mounts are nothing new, and I’ve used a few of them over the past decade or so. Breek Arms is adding to our options by bringing us their Breek LOK QD suppressor mount. I frequently talk about the industry moving to use the standard 1.375x 24 TPI hub system, and the Breek LOK also uses this universal pattern. This allows you to use the advantages of the Breek LOK system with a huge variety of suppressors.
The Breek LOK system uses a tri-lug connecting system, which has been used with much success by other manufacturers. The hub is installed over one of their tri-lug Breek muzzle devices, and with a fairly light down pressure you twist the suppressor a couple times to lock up the hub to the muzzle device.
Inside the Breek LOK hub there are a few parts, including a sealing tapered surface that mates to an opposing surface on the muzzle device. Both of these surfaces are located down-range of the lugs and anchor points, preventing them from getting fouled by suppressor crud. Also inside the hub is a coil spring tensioner and a ball-detent to keep the hub lined up to install every time. The hub uses the 1.375×24 thread pattern that most suppressor manufacturers are putting at the breech end of their suppressors. This allows you to install the Breek LOK on most any modern suppressor, giving you quick detach and installation capability.
I installed the Breek LOK system on a variety of firearms and suppressors. Mainly 5.56 carbines and suppressors I would use with them, I’d like to get another muzzle device threaded 5/8-24 so I can use it with my larger rifles as well.
After applying a touch of anti-seize to the threads at the back of my suppressor, I threaded in the Breek LOK hub. And using the included wrench I easily tightened it down. The opposite end of the wrench is made to tighten down the muzzle device, which make it very handy and convenient while working on the combination.
So far I’ve installed the Breek LOK hub into a few different suppressors from various manufacturers. Notably and shown here is the YHM R9, the Banish Meateater, the Anechoic 35M, and the GDM 556K. The hub fit perfectly into all of them, and made it quick and easy to remove and install the suppressors.
Tightening the hub with the included wrench
Breek LOK Operation
The Breek LOK hub functions by using the aforementioned tapered seal to keep gas within the suppressor. The locking lugs of the hub engage the opposing lugs of the muzzle device, and you simply push down and twist. There is only one little caveat, the lugs are timed. One of the voids between the three lugs is deeper, so you’ll need to make sure you line it up right prior to installing the suppressor. It might sound a little tedious, but once you figure it out its actually quite fast.
While applying pressure down to seat the taper of the hub, you give it a clockwise twist to secure the suppressor. It usually only takes two or so twists to secure the can to the rifle, but it comes off with a very short counter-clockwise twist.
One of the intricacies I found with the Breek LOK hub (besides the alignment to install part), was the outer sleeve of the hub and its ball detent. You can over-rotate the sleeve, causing it to not tighten down properly. If the sleeve is one turn too tight, it won’t go on, and if the sleeve is one turn too loose, it will hook onto the muzzle device but it won’t secure tightly. Causing a loose and dangerous baffle strike condition. This is obviously something you can avoid by familiarizing yourself with how the hub works. And keeping it in the right rotation using the ball detent.
As I mentioned, removing a suppressor on the Breek LOK hub is even faster than installing it. Barely a quarter turn or so will pop the can right off of the muzzle. But, I prefer to turn it a little more to ensure the sleeve stops by locking into the ball detent.
here you can see the hub detail, mounted to an Anechoic 35 can
Consideration
I like the way the Breek LOK hub works. My biggest concern is that over time the internal parts of the hub might get crudded up causing a failure. The worst case scenario would be it getting locked up, trapping your suppressor. This should be easy to avoid by routine maintenance and cleaning. I always put fresh anti seize on my suppressor threads nearly every time I attach them or swap out hubs.
For the most part I am a direct thread kind of shooter. mainly because I shoot mostly bolt-guns or precision autoloaders. QD suppressors have never really been a huge priority for me, but I would love to have one of these Breek LOK hubs on all of my suppressors. It would make it so easy to switch back and forth from one rifle to another as well as making them easy to break down for transport. The only down-side to such a scenario might be some slightly added weight.
The added benefit of having a bunch of matching muzzles and homogenous hubs would come at some cost though. At $200 per hub, it would make the already extravagant stamp collector dig another tax stamps worth of bills from his wallet.
All that considered, I think the Breek LOK hub system would be a slick addition to any suppressor enthusiast. Especially if you are the type to run one can on various rifles. Tell us what you think in the comment section below, what is your preferred method of mounting suppressors?
You could say I’m a bit of a fan of the Meateater show, I do my fair share of hunting and eating. I never would have expected the brand would have made it into my daily use. But that’s the subject for today; I bring you a review of the Banish Meateater Suppressor from Silencer Central.
Banish suppressors have been everywhere lately, and I have been pretty impressed with their lineup. The Meateater Suppressor is a more recent development, and based on the name alone I suspect it is targeting the hunting public.
The Banish Meateater Suppressor
As I dug into the Banish Meateater, I could see that its hunting focus was more than just in the name. The titanium construction made the suppressor quite lightweight, which is a paramount feature for hunters.
Part of the reason the can is so light is because of its simple design. A traditional baffle stack held in by two threaded end caps. On the breech side you have the industry standard 1.375 x 24 threaded hub, which allows you to change the mount to whatever best fits your needs. The suppressor comes with a 5/8-24 threaded cap, but you could easily swap it out for a different one should you need to. This is a nice feature vs. having to have your barrel re-threaded.
the Meateater made my multi-caliber Desert Tech SRS M2 even more pleasant to shoot
Innovative Design
At the front end of the Meateater is where this can gets interesting. The threaded end cap houses some very cunning features; the muzzle can be interchanged between thirty-caliber and 6.5mm. These two inserts allow users to optimize the suppressor for most every popular hunting caliber thirty or less. Reducing the muzzle cap to 6.5mm will optimize its performance for 22, 6mm, 25 and 6.5mm cartridges. While the thirty-caliber cap keeps it tight for .270, 7mm, and 30 caliber options.
here you can see the two different muzzle ports, the black one for smaller calibers, and the grey one for 30 caliber
Using the optimal muzzle cap in the Meateater is important because there is another innovative feature in the muzzle of this can. The endcap keeps back pressure to help force more of the pressure out through the radial brake that is incorporated to the front of the suppressor. Its purpose is to help reduce recoil felt by the shooter.
here you can see the on/off feature of the Meateater brake
The suppressed report of my rifles sounded very good, not quite as sharp as other suppressors. Almost as if the bleeding off of pressure through the brake vents made it sound better. It was an impressive suppression performance from a can that is neither heavy nor bulky.
As a long-time suppressor enthusiast I rarely see one I don’t want. In the decades since my first suppressor interaction however, I have noticed a few things about short suppressors. For a long time, there were suppressors designed primarily for law enforcement and military use that were very short. This effected their ability to subdue the report of a rifle to my taste. Times are changing however, and today we are looking at two very short and compact suppressors that do exactly what you’d want them to do. We are comparing the YHM Fat Cat VS. Banish Speed K.
Both of these suppressors are very compact, and they both do a good job of subduing rifle noise. So today I wanted to put them up against each other to see which one I would pick if I couldn’t have both. These compact suppressors are designed for use on 5.56 or .223 caliber semi-auto rifles which most of us commonly use. My analysis will be based on various features but most importantly how these can’s stand up to a heavily used carbine or what many have colloquially called a “fighting rifle” or “battle rifle”.
Fat Cat and Banish Speed K Specifications
YHM Fat Cat
Banish Speed K
Caliber
5.56mm
.223/5.56mm
Weight
13.2oz (with adaptor)
14.1 oz
Length
4.5” (with adaptor)
4”
Diameter
1.94”
2”
Construction Material
17-4 Stainless/ Cobalt 6
Inconel
Decibel Reduction
20dB
20.9dB
Minimum Barrel Length
10” min.
None
Full-Auto Rated
Yes
Yes
Mount Style
Ind. Standard Hub Mount
Ind. Standard Hub Mount
Finish
Black Cerakote
Black Cerakote
Warranty
Limited Lifetime
Limited Lifetime
Baffle Design
Traditional Stacked baffles
Controlled Flow
User Serviceable
No
No
Included Mount
½-28 sRx Mini QD brake
½-28 Direct Thread
These two suppressors are very similar in size and specifications though there are some differences. The biggest differences that I feel are important I’ll point out here; The Banish Speed K is either 3D printed or DMLS fabricated from Inconel. Inconel is a very robust material (nickel chromium alloy) that is very resistant to both heat and abrasion. This makes the Speed K one solid piece of material, which can be very robust. But for those of us who have broken suppressors before, it makes them nearly impossible to repair if needed. The Speed K uses a finned blast chamber and clipped wall baffles to help reduce sound.
The YHM Fat Cat is built in the more traditional fashion, welding together 17-4 Stainless steel. It uses a cobalt 6 blast baffle to help tame the extreme pressure, heat and abrasion coming from the muzzle. Cobalt 6 (cobalt-chromium-tungsten alloy) is also very resistant to heat and erosion. The fat cat uses an interesting funnel shape to increase the volume of the blast chamber, and it appears the design also helps create a turbulent flow to help reduce sound.
Both suppressors use the industry standard hub mounting system. I can’t tell you how much I like and appreciate the industry moving this direction. It has made mounting your suppressors infinitely easier. You can use whichever mounting system you prefer, whether it be the YHM sRx QD system as provided with the Fat Cat, or something else like the Dead Air KeyMo system, or Plan B from Q. Both suppressors also use a tri-clipped muzzle port, this has become a common feature among many cans.
this combination is an excellent medium range carbine
Host Firearms
To properly test these two suppressors, I put together a small collection of rifles that would give them both a good workout. For pure sound testing, I would run them on my Savage Model 12 chambered in .223. The bolt-action rifle would give the best opportunity to hear the report of both suppressors. I would also use My Desert Tech WLVRN with the 20-inch .223 barrel, the adjustable gas system of the WLVRN would allow me to tune for performance and see how the two cans affected its function.
this little rifle’s upper half is from CMMG, while the lower is from Desert Tech
Additionally I would run them both on a couple other AR15 based rifles like most folks would likely use. One of them a 16-inch Aero Precision build and the other a short barreled 5.56 that we’d also run some full auto through the cans.
Shooting these two suppressors across the host firearms gave a pretty good idea of how they compare. I kept switching them out back and forth to compare.
Both suppressors sounded very hearing safe on the longer rifles. The 16″ Quattro 15 and the 20″ WLVRN were very pleasant to shoot without hearing protection. Of course I have to add the caveat that you should always wear ear protection, even when suppressed.
Backpressure
Almost every suppressor out there adds at least some back-pressure in my experience. And these two were not exempt.
We as gun owners have a passion for customizing our firearms. The accessory and customization aftermarket is arguably as strong as the firearms market itself, but for some folks there is a line they dare not cross. Toady we are going to discuss perhaps one of the more challenging firearm customizations; painting your guns.
I built this rifle for my son many years ago now, see more of its custom paint here
We’ve all seen some amazing custom paint and Cerakote jobs by custom shops. And even using cheap rattle-can you can often create some amazing looking firearms. I’ve really enjoyed custom painting a variety of firearms over the years, and I’ve had quite a few requests during the same time. So today I wanted to share my method, as well as help you take the plunge toward your own creation. With any luck, your result will be impressive and I’d love to share pictures of what you come up with below.
Getting a good paint-gun is a good idea if you are using anything but spray-paint
Why Paint Your Gun?
If you are like me, you see guns as more than just a noisy tool, it’s often an extension of our own tastes and practices. That is part of the reason you’ll find many of my guns are painted camouflage, not because I believe myself to be some kind of sniper, but because it fits into my shooting style and practice. I really doubt the camo paint on my rifles or the camo I wear while hunting is really that effective in many situations. I’ve killed as many coyotes wearing jeans and a hoodie as I have fully decked out in camo. But I like the look of a camo rifle, and that’s all the reason I need. And as important or unimportant as it might be, it sets my guns apart from others.
Custom coatings are becoming more and more common these days, whether it be your turkey shotgun or a varmint rifle. They do a great job protecting our guns from corrosion and salt-water, or whatever else you might encounter in your shooting practice. Factory jobs are pretty good looking, but they often lack some of the individuality we crave. That’s where we jump off today.
a few minutes with stencils and rattle-cans can make a pretty big change in your gun’s looks, this old Remington 700 got dressed up with a custom B&C stock and paint
Pick Your Poison
I mentioned Cerakote, which is a bake-on ceramic coating that is extremely durable and protective to your firearm. There are many other kinds of coatings you can use that require less effort and surface prep than Cerakote, of course they are also less durable.
Having used both, I can say there are pros to going either way. For example, I like the weathered look of some paint jobs. Duracoat is a two-part coating similar to epoxy that also has very durable and protective qualities. Even the Krylon spray-paint you find at the hardware store can be effectively used to coat your firearms. Brownell’s Aluma-hyde also comes in a spray cans and creates an epoxy-like finish that is also very durable. Using one or more of these products together can create some cool effects on your guns.
Generally I use more than one of the aforementioned coatings, like a Cerakote base followed by one of the other products. This typically gives me the protection and sometimes weathered look I desire.
Artist Block
Perhaps the hardest part is deciding exactly what you want to create. There are plenty of designs out there you can copy or imitate, the good news is that even if you try to copy something it will likely turn out different.
my son and his custom painted .260 Remington, you can read about it here
I’ll share an idea that has helped me; I have two nearly identical use rifles, but I painted them differently. One of them has a camo pattern that fits in very well to the dry desert landscape of the Great Basin where I do a LOT of shooting. The other rifle is painted to match the alpine forests where I also spend a lot of time.
My Desert Tech WLVRN (left) painted for forests, and my MDRX painted for the desert
I also have other rifles that have been painted in such a way that they mix into either of those two landscapes. Honestly the way I’ve best overcome artist block is by looking at cool paint-jobs on the internet, and then coming up with something I like combining the looks of what I’ve seen. Often times I change it up in the middle of the paint booth and surprise myself.
Preparing your Guns for Painting
Cleaning
You should start with a clean gun, the cleaner the better. Mainly free of dirt an oil, so a better than typical cleaning is for sure in order. Even if the gun is brand new I like to at least clean it with solvent to remove any oils or other contaminants. Any part of the gun that will be painted or touched during painting should be clean.
I like to use something like acetone or MEK to remove everything from the gun’s surface after cleaning. Of course you should always look into the materials your gun is made of to ensure you don’t use something that will damage it.
Disassembly
Most guns will require some level of disassembly to properly paint them. If you don’t know how to disassemble your guns, this might be your first clue you’re in over your head. Make sure you research and understand the various parts and how everything goes together. Its also a good idea to see what parts don’t need to be disassembled to properly paint the gun.
disassembling firearms to sub components is key, its also great to paint all possible accessories
Also something to keep in mind, if you are using a heat cured coating like Cerakote, its important to know what parts can be heated in an oven and what parts cannot. Some polymers can be safely heated to the cure temp, and some might not. There are alternative options like air curable Cerakote, the Duracoat and other spray paints. I typically try and use the same products on all parts for matching tones.
You can also break it up by doing something like painting the stock or chassis one pattern, and leaving the barrel a solid color. Lots of combinations to mix it up can create some good looks.
Surface prep
In addition to cleaning, depending on the coating or paint you intend to use, the surface may need preparation. For example when Cerakoting, metal parts need to be both clean and preferably bead blasted. The raw roughed up surface is what Cerakote adheres to. Other coatings and paints can also benefit from the same process though it may be less critical.
this raw bright steel barrel has been bead-blasted and cleaned, ready for coating
Anodized parts are fine as they are, in my experience most coating adhere great to anodized surfaces. Make sure all the parts you intend to coat are clean, and their surfaces ready before starting anything else.
Components
Another thing you’ll want to keep in mind while painting is the components that will go with the firearms. Whether it be a scope, a weapon light, or some other accessory. Keep it in mind while doing your prep, though I wouldn’t recommend putting your scopes and some accessories through a sand blaster or oven. Its also important to keep paint and coating out of places they shouldn’t get, like inside barrels, or other parts. The same goes for sand-blasting, make sure to seal barrels and protect threads and engravings etc. In short, cover everything you don’t want paint or sandblast grit getting into, and when in doubt cover it.
Also, many of my firearms are configurable. Meaning I can change barrels, handguards, suppressors and such. So if you are going to paint the gun, paint the other components to match at the same time. That way you can ensure a good pattern and color match because they were all prepped and painted at the same time.
Stencils and Masking
Stencils and Tape
I like to use stencils for custom paint jobs, there are all kinds of stencil kits you can buy that make it easy. Different patterns and styles can be had or made yourself. I often make my own stencils using just the blue painters tape or the high-temp masking tape if you plan to bake your parts.
I use a sharp little CRKT knife to cut masking tape stencils on an old cutting board
I usually use a plastic cutting board, and an razor knife to cut out the shapes and features I want. I usually do this as I go, cutting and adjusting my stencil shapes to fit in the space available on the gun.
Colors and Layers
After deciding on how many colors I want to use, I decide how many layers it might take. For example, with three colors I start with the base color and start making the remaining two layers of color. It’s important to be able to visualize a negative image, much like looking at camera negatives. The first color you start with will likely be the smallest shapes in your pattern, and the last color you paint will likely be the majority of your paint job.
Every layer you cover with a stencil, will be represented by the color underneath. So if I have a base color of black, then add a stencil and paint brown, then another stencil and paint tan, the finished look after removing the stencils will give me a black/brown/tan in the shapes as they were covered.
Texture
I add more detail by adding texture to some layers by using a mesh, or leaves, or some other material. Doing this to some layers and not others gives a depth to the paint job.
Once you pull off the stencils after a safe drying period, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by what it looks like underneath. The more time you take between layers the better, and there’s nothing wrong with going back over it afterwards to get the effect you desire.
This humble black/brown/tan example was an old handguard I didn’t need. This took a few minutes goofing around in my garage last night. So you can imagine how much better it would look if you took your time and made it better. That’s how most of the guns pictured here have been done, just with more diligence and prep-time.
Cure and Dry Time
Depending on the type of coating you use, you might need to bake your parts or just let them air dry. Using your wife’s oven for baking Cerakote will go over like a fart in an elevator so think this through before becoming single. I always like to use some level of heat, it not only speeds the process but also sets the paint better and removes the tackiness of the cheaper finishes.
In the summer time I will leave my parts out in the hot summer sun as long as possible to help bake on spray paint. Or sit them over a heating vent during the winter, but make sure you get the paint cured either with heat or time. You don’t want to be at the range a few hours later and have paint rubbing into your hands.
this chubby little .223 Remington wears a Vortex Viper scope, I chose not to paint the scope on this one
Final Thoughts
This is the way I paint guns, it is certainly not the only way. I’m sure some internet hero will be along shortly to tell me what I’m doing wrong, but thats ok. The only thing that matters at the end of the day is that you like your result.
That said, I would love to see what you come up with. So if you’ve managed to paint one of your guns and survived, message me how yours turned out, and maybe we’ll post it up here for everybody else to gaze upon.
Anyone who regularly carries a handgun is familiar with the downsides of concealed carry. But every now and then somebody innovates an idea that’s like a ray of sunshine in the dark. Polymer framed pistols have become a mainstay in our handgun market, and some of them bring incredible features to concealed carry enthusiasts. Today we are reviewing one such pistol that promises a perfect balance of concealment and capacity, the Springfield Armory Hellcat Pro.
Big claims by Springfield Armory (SA) about the smallest footprint in its class are matched with impressive magazine capacities of 15+1 and 17+1. From a small pistol that’s only an inch wide and weighs in at 21 ounces. As both a CCW and general firearm enthusiast, I was encouraged by the opportunity to see how the Hellcat Pro stands up to these claims.
The Hellcat Pro OSP
The Hellcat Pro OSP (optical sight pistol) also incorporates the very popular trend of allowing installation of red dot sights. It’s Melonited® slide comes ready to mount RMSC sized red dots that co-witness with the sights. The sights themselves include a Tritium luminescent front sights and U-shaped rear sight. The sights line up beautifully, and when the included Viridian RFXII red dot (actually green) its zeroed its very conducive to aiming well.
note sight lineup, front and rear sight lined up perfectly with green dot from the RFXII
Additional features like the loaded chamber indicator are nice for safe operation. And the slide is texture-cut both front and rear allowing you options for grip. The polymer frame also features a nice texture for better purchase, and a reversible mag-release in case you grip with the wrong hand. The crisp trigger features a pretty standard blade safety, but no other safeties which I prefer for CCW. There is other models of the HC Pro that do include a manual safety if that’s your style.
I don’t consider my hands to be big or small (but don’t let that fool you), and my average hands fill the grip area perfectly. The extended 17-round magazines add additional grip area if you are one of those bigger handed fellows. And up front you’ll find the typical picatinny rail for weapon lights.
My first impressions when I pulled the Hellcat Pro from its soft case was how compact it is. The narrow frame is very apparent, making me immediately think of how less-invasive it would be on my belt. The whole design of the Hellcat is very conducive to concealment, it has very clean edges and few snag-points.
The gripping areas on the frame and slide were adequate. When I pulled the slide back the first few times I noticed the dual recoil springs are stiffer than I had anticipated. I suppose I wouldn’t have minded a slightly more course slide cut design for better purchase. But at the same time I understand this is a CCW gun, not a competition pistol. So there will be less drawing of slides, and more sliding in and out of your waistband, so the texture is probably just right. The overall feel of the gun was fantastic, and made me very optimistic about its potential.
Shooting the Hellcat Pro
With a can full of 115 grain ammunition from MWLP, I headed out to shoot the little Hellcat. It wasn’t long before I was stuffing mags full of cartridges. Unfortunately that was where I met my first hiccup. Stiff magazines springs are common when dealing with larger capacity, but I found that on the 17 round Hellcat mags loading the last round was unbearably hard. It literally felt like I was going to break something, on at least one of the mags I was unable to get the 17th cartridge in.
Loading
Loading full magazines into the pistol took a really firm slap to seat unless the slide was open. With the gun loaded it was time to start snapping the trigger, which felt great. Small 9mm pistols like this are often a little harder to keep on target through recoil, and the Hellcat was no different. It was certainly pretty peppy as rounds flashed downrange. I tend to prefer larger pistols for this reason, but I’m sure that with proper practice and training I would be more comfortable.
I shot through all the magazines, performing reloads in between. Again, I am used to larger pistols, and particularly those that use flared magwells. So it was no surprise that it took more focus to stab the fresh magazines into the narrow magwell of the Hellcat Pro. I also noticed another issue while performing reloads, the Hellcat would frequently fail to lock open when empty. At first I thought it was a specific magazine. Additional testing seemed to prove that it was just a random occurrence among all of them. I suppose it is possible that my finger might have been touching the slide release, but I don’t think so.
Sighting
The sights on the little Hellcat Pro stood out great for me. I felt they were easy enough to pick up even coming through the spicier recoil. The natural pointing angle of the little pistol felt right, and it was always quick to get on target.
The Viridian RFXII reflex sight seemed like a perfect match for the Hellcat, at only 4 ounces it doesn’t add much to the pistol. The RFX features an instant on/off feature, which I am afraid may have been a bit glitchy. During the course of our shooting, it turned off and back on more than once. The ambient light detection feature adjusts the brightness of the dot depending on conditions, but it changed far more than expected while shooting. Even in an indoor controlled shooting range. Obviously this is not what should be expected, and I suppose there may have been some reason for the malfunction, and its certainly nothing to hold against the Hellcat.
The trigger and other controls on the Hellcat Pro were great. The clean break of the trigger felt very consistent and just right for a CCW pistol. At first I thought maybe the slide release was a bit stiff, but it seemed to lighten up a bit after some shooting and break-in.
the stripped Hellcat Pro OSP, note 15 & 17 round mags, the Streamlight TLR8 was a great companion
The magazine release is pretty low profile, which is good for a CCW pistol to avoid inadvertent release. Even so, dropping the mag was perfectly natural and tactile under your thumb. The takedown lever took a second to figure out, but it too made breaking down the pistol quick and painless for cleaning. Speaking of breaking-down, with the pistol apart for cleaning, I was happy to see some quality internals. By that I mean not a bunch of cheap stamped parts, but more cast and MIM’d parts it seemed.
Pros & Cons of the Hellcat Pro
Lets get into some of the reasons why you would or wouldn’t pick this gun over others. We’ll start with the positive; This things is very compact and neat, it is easily concealed and comfortable to carry as well. I would say there are few pistols I found as comfy as this one, other guns like the S&W Shield andGlock 43are also great but hold fewer rounds. If you are used to Glock 19 sized pistols then this will feel much better in your belt. I really appreciated the snag-free design, the great controls and especially the high capacity. From an aesthetic view, the gun looks good, and no demerits were added for the sin of molding “grip zone” into the grip of the pistol.
But I suppose the capacity comes at a price, I was a little bit let down by the mag performance. The occasional mag that won’t quite hold the full 17 rounds is a little irritating, but thats still quite a few more than the other pistols I mentioned. I was also turned off by the failures to lock open when empty, but again I’d rather get a click after shooting 16-17 rounds than have to reload after as few as 6-7 rounds.
All these little CCW pistols are a little harder to control than your full-size models. Depending on who is shooting the gun this could be a big deal. For example, I would not want my 100 pound wife to shoot this pistol as it would likely be a whole lotta flinching and vertical stringing. But with some practice these things can be overcome. If you are familiar with shooting, this is much less a problem. Lastly, the Hellcat is made overseas, which for some folks is a deal breaker.
Springfield Armory Hellcat Pro Value
Springfield Armory has an MSRP of $1050.00 which is no small token. However I have found this pistol for sale all over the internet for under six-hundred dollars, which is MUCH easier to swallow. I was genuinely surprised with the deal this one came in, with the RFXII red dot, one 15-round mag and three 17-round magazines, a padded soft-case and a range bag all for under six-hundred dollars as well. With other comparable guns asking the same price for half the capacity, I think the Hellcat Pro is easily a good value.
Conclusion
Despite the few hiccups, the Hellcat Pro still seems like a pretty good value. Every time I expected it to go bang, it most certainly did (unless it was empty 😅). And that is likely the most important feature in a CCW pistol. The other features also make it a good option for a carry pistol, and I expect it might not take much tinkering to work out the bugs I mentioned above. But if you are the kind of guy who demands perfection, then maybe you might have to adjust your sights a little higher. I hope I’ve made it easier for you to make your choice, good luck!
Many of you are aware of my affinity for Desert Tech rifles, and if you are reading this you’ve likely seen much of my content about the various rifles. Today I am diving down another custom project similar to one I’ve done in the past. I made a custom barrel for my MDRX in 6mm ARC years ago, and today I am bringing you the story on how I went about making another custom, my Desert Tech WLVRN 6mm ARC project.
Because of the extremely satisfying results with my MDRX, I became quite fond of the 6mm ARC cartridge and have since gotten more of them. It was also a natural choice for me when I got my Desert Tech WLVRN, of course this would again require me to make my own. Today I’ll go over how that went.
the 6 ARC WLVRN left of the 6 ARC MDRX
The Desert Tech WLVRN
The Desert Tech WLVRNis the latest generation semi-auto bullpup, a direct descendant of the MDRX. Both of them being multi-caliber piston operated carbines. They share a great deal of parts and features, but they are also very different. The barrel mounting system is different, as are the barrel extensions, bolts, receiver and more. Perhaps the best difference between the two in my opinion, is the larger clamping-surface that holds the barrel. Part of that is because the trunnion is machined into the aluminum receiver, getting rid of the steel barrel block. Additional other steel parts were also removed, greatly reducing the weight of the rifle. The machined-in trunnion also makes the WLVRN return to zero when switching barrels. This was something aspired to by the MDRX but was never consistent.
I bought my WLVRN initially setup as a 20-inch .223, which was awesome. It shot very well, and even with the longer barrel it felt lighter than my shorter MDRX. But I wanted more, I wanted the 6 ARC performance. Which in my opinion felt kind of like a 5.56 that shoots like a 6.5 Creedmoor.
if you look closely you can see my advanced gas block placement
The 6mm ARC
Hornady has put out a bunch of new calibers over the past few years, and the 6mm Advanced Rifle Cartridge (ARC) is one of many. The ARC boasts a very efficient design that gives impressive performance from AR15 platformsor micro bolt-actions like my Howa Mini.
The ARC can push 105 grain bullets at near 2800 FPS, which is still doing over 2000 FPS at a quarter-mile away and still carrying over 1000 lbs of energy. For comparison, thats much faster than a good 77 grain 5.56 load, and double the energy. And at 1000 yards, the disparity is just as impressive, not that I’d like to catch either of them. The 6 ARC can be fired from the same sized actions and magazines as the 5.56, so this ballistic advantage is enticing.
My former experiences with the 6 ARC in my MDRX and Howa Mini were very impressive, both from a target shooting aspect as well as hunting big game. We’ve killed several deer and antelope using the same 105 Hornady BTHP. This led me to be even more enthusiastic about an ARC for my WLVRN. Since my MDRX is a little heavier, and I already have bigger caliber conversion kits for it like 308, 6.5CM, and 450BM, I figured I would keep the WLVRN more of a smaller caliber rifle. The added accuracy benefits of the WLVRN also seemed like a better platform for a DMR type rifle.
I started this project by contacting my long-time friend and gun-plumber at ES-Tactical. Despite his not wanting to get involved into another oddball project, he agreed to cut me a twenty-two-inch barrel from a K&P blank. It was a totally different profile than a typical WLVRN barrel, aside from a heavier profile I also spec’d a different gas block position further down the barrel.
Once I had the barrel in hand, I wanted to try something before it was even finished. I torqued down the barrel extension with some thread-locker, and headed to the range. With no gas block or piston operation, I wanted to see how accurate the barrel shot. So I fired a couple groups, operating the rifle manually like a straight-pull action. I was astonished to see that shooting my 105 grain handloads at 100 yards, the WLVRN put ten shots into just over 1/2 MOA. Something I wouldn’t have believed had I not shot it myself.
The very first shots from the clean barrel, prior to installing gas block
My reasoning was to see how much the rifle’s accuracy was effected by the gas operation once installed. Which was my next step.
Machining
It was time to make some metal chips of my own. I drilled a gas-port in the barrel and pressed the gas block down snugly. I figured I would just use the same gas-valve that my 20″ 223 barrel used and see if I could get it to work on one of the settings. But before I got that far, I would need a custom piston. Having moved the gas block towards the muzzle of the barrel, would require adjusting the length of the gas piston accordingly.
my freshly pressed gas block and custom piston
You might be asking yourself why I moved the gas block at all. The reason is to get a better purchase of the gas flow. By moving the gas block down the barrel towards the muzzle, the operation of the action is delayed slightly. This allows the bullet to exit the barrel long before any action movements, as well as allowing the gas-pressure within the barrel to decompress some. This makes ejection and extraction less stressful on both the rifle and cartridge case. There’s also an argument to made for barrel harmonics and accuracy as well. Timing the piston operation can greatly enhance accuracy by changing the way the barrel whips as the rifle reloads itself.
Once I had my custom piston ready, it was time to see how the rifle would function. This would require some trial and error, going through a variety of malfunctions tuning the gas flow until we found a happy medium. Luckily, my gas valve selection was close enough, which meant it was time to go back to the range. An unfortunate consequence in both the MDRX and the WLVRN was significant damage to cartridge cases when the rifle didn’t eject them properly.
both the WLVRN and MDRX are hard on cases when they don’t run right
First Range Trip
Accuracy
It was time for the first real range trip, with a fully functioning WLVRN. This trip was actually into the mountains and not the range, but I prefer the mountains over the range anyways. It would allow me to see how the rifle performed at distance as well.
My initial accuracy test were okay at best, mainly because I hadn’t anticipated for the weather. It was cold and snowing with some blustery wind thrown in, and to add some pressure it was getting late so I rushed it more than I’d have liked.
Even so, the WLVRN printed some barely sub MOA five shot groups. Later testing would prove even better. Most of my testing was done using a suppressor, my Anechoic Anechox 35 which made the rifle very tame and pleasant to shoot. I also shot it using the Yankee Hill Machine Turbo T3 which was better in some aspects I’ll detail below.
You can see from my additional testing, typical groups from the 6 ARC WLVRN average around 3/4 MOA. While the better groups would shrink as small as 1/2MOA. I am fairly confident this had more to do with me than it did with the WLVRN.
Long-Range
Just because I am incapable of not trying, I stretched the 6ARC out a ways to see how it did at some longer distances. We shot at 715 yards, and 430 yards in some pretty gusty wind. At 715 yards I held about 1.2 MIL into the quarter value wind and was very impressed with the impacts. Not only were they very consistent, but they really hit with some authority.
While shooting at the 430 yard-line, I aimed at a small patch of snow in some dirt. I can’t imagine the snow patch was much bigger than a can of tuna, and every shot from the WLVRN would have sent Starkist fish everywhere. I was really getting excited about this rifle’s potential.
Shooting this same load in my MDRX has proven to be very effective at distances as far as 1000 yards away. Taking varmints that far away is a fun and challenging venture, and with the same load my wife took down an antelope at just shy of 500 yards.
Because I’m a bit of a tinkerer, I figured I would also try something else. My longer piston worked fine, but I also explored another option. Using a standard length piston, and an extended op-rod (the stainless rod that goes between the bolt-carrier and piston) was another option. By adding additional length to the op-rod, I would get the same effect as the longer custom piston. But in addition it would add more weight to the reciprocating mass of the bolt carrier. This would also help buffer the operation some, which I wanted to proof out. That way I could see which of the two approaches was more effective for reliability and accuracy. Come back for more on this development later…
Gas Refinement
I have no doubt that moving the gas block further down the barrel definitely helped with the function of the rifle. It likely reduced chamber pressures during extraction, and helped counter some of the barrel movement that has made accuracy a challenge with other similar variants. It also made it impossible to adjust the gas valve without removing the handguard, but I never cared about that feature anyways. I always shoot suppressed, so I set the valve and forget it.
Note the much larger profile of the custom 6 ARC barrel, and the larger WLVRN trunnion
That said, I think the significant increase in accuracy over a factory conversion kit has as much to do with the barrel contour as it does the gas block perch. The thick barrel is much stiffer, it actually barely fits in the chassis, I had to shorten the two handguard screws to prevent them from pressing against the barrel.
I also like the additional two inches of barrel, this surely helps me get as much velocity as possible out of the 6 ARC. And still gives me the compact handling bullpups are famous for. The only downside of course is weight, the added barrel diameter and length adds a fair amount. But this too is something I don’t mind dealing with, I like the accuracy over the light weight.
Suppressor Compatibility
Much of my shooting was done with the Anechoic Anechox 35 suppressor, which worked great. But since I didn’t have quite the precise ability to drill gas-holes in the thousandths of an inch, it seemed a little more challenging to get the gas flow just right. I did find that by using a different suppressor with a little more backpressure helped get just the right amount of gas volume.
the US Optics TXH and YHM T3 made perfect companions to the WLVRN
I installed my YHM Turbo T3, which is a 5.56 suppressor. The tighter bore of the T3 added some backpressure, I assume that the traditional baffle construction of the T3 also had something to do with it as well. Disclaimer: I cannot recommend using a 5.56 suppressor on a 6mm cartridge, do so at your own risk.
That said, the addition of the T3 seemed to get me to the perfect operation for the rifle and the 6mm ARC cartridge. It greatly enhanced reliability and consistency of the operation, and it sounds great too! I think its safe to assume that any similar suppressor would have provided a similar outcome. Changing suppressors to get the optimal performance from a rifle is nothing new.
Ejection
Ejection of the 6 ARC case was predictable, the port is plenty big since it can accommodate 308 sized cases. I did switch out the polymer ejection port to the older MDRX style aluminum model, as they are a little tougher. I still occasionally will get a stovepipe malfunction, but it is very minimal.
There is always something to learn with these projects. I for sure still like the 6mm ARC, perhaps even more so now because of my WLVRN. It has turned my little green wolverine into something quite a bit more mean. I still have the low recoil and efficiency of small cartridges, but significantly more downrange energy. Though if I did it again, I think I would have gone with a slightly lighter contour on the barrel. And probably fluted it as well, just to keep the WLVRN as light as possible. The accuracy from this combination makes the rifle more than suitable for my hunting purposes, both big game and varmints will soon succumb to the WLVRN and its 100 grain bullets in the next few weeks.
Since finishing the 6 ARC, I used it on a successful cull hunt for mule deer. This doe was taken at 300 yards shooting the Hornady 105 BTHP handloads
I’m sure I’m not the only one imagining the possibilities with this rifle; An accurate (sub-MOA) semi-auto rifle fed by 20-round magazines, with a kill envelope arguably to 1000yds, that weighs in under 11 pounds and 36.5-inches long with a suppressor…
[1000yard stare intensifies…]
That is not to say that these projects are for everyone. You absolutely must be some kind of a tinkerer, with a mechanical inclination. There is plenty of headache and challenge involved in a project like this. And theres always the possibility that your result isn’t as reliable or great as you’d hoped after spending a good amount of money. So temper your enthusiasm and expectations before considering a project like this. As always, I will update this with more information as it develops so make sure to follow me for.
-CBM
2026 Update:
This custom kit continues to impress me. I swapped the conversion kit into a different rifle to do some testing. Due to the necessity to run a different suppressor for said testing, I needed to adjust the gas flow with a different valve to make it work properly. Additionally I found that the extractor wasn’t working as good as I wanted it to, so I also did some alterations there to guarantee 100% cycling with the Huxwrx Flow. With reliability greatly increased, I did some additional accuracy testing.
For the accuracy test I used some factory Hornady 108 Match ammuntion, as well as my favorite handload using Hornady 105 BTHP. The barrel was pulled from the chassis between every shot; four barrel resets between four shots of the 108 ammo, and three barrel resets between three shots from my handloads. The resulting groups measured 1.24 MOA and .357 MOA respectively. Not too shabby for breaking both the shooting position and barrel between every shot.
Excellent show of the rifle’s ability to return to zero, with the barrel being pulled completely out of the rifle between every shot.
Today I once again find myself going down the baffled rabbit hole of suppressors, our subject for today is the Banish Backcountry suppressor by Silencer Central. This rugged and lightweight suppressor is built for backcountry hunters who demand performance with as little weight as possible. My purpose is to put this suppressor to the test so inquiring minds like yours can decide if it fits into your list of needs.
When the Banish Backcountry showed up, I was surprised by few things. As I lifted it from the foam-lined box it became very clear what the engineers had in mind with the Backcountry can. If I had to describe the Backcountry with one word I suppose it would be simplicity.
A look in the breech end of the Backcountry suppressor
The Banish Backcountry uses a traditional baffle design welded together made from titanium. The slight departure from tradition is that the Backcountry uses the Banish line’s industry standard mounting hub. This allows the user to swap out the mounting situation to whatever best suits their needs. The 1.375 x 24 threads are nearly universal even among other manufacturers, allowing incredible variety in how you attach this suppressor to the host firearm.
the mounting hub of the Banish Backcountry
Banish Backcountry Specifications
Length
5.5 in
Diameter
1.6 in
Weight
7.8 oz
Material
Titanium
Thread Pitch
⅝-24 (included)
User Serviceable
No
Caliber
.300
Maximum Caliber
300 RUM
Color Options
Black or OD Green
Finish
Gun Kote
Sound Reduction
30 dB
Mounting Style
Direct thread universal mounting hub
Full-Auto Rated
No
Warranty
Limited Lifetime
The Banish backcountry came to me with a handsome black finish, I am a big fan of the OD Green though. I was extremely impressed at its lightweight, coming in under eight ounces is outstanding. Additionally the under six-inches wouldn’t add much to my hunting rifles.
The lightweight of this suppressor is in part the titanium construction, as well as the simple design. I was curious how well it would do at suppressing the noise with its smaller configuration, it wouldn’t take long to find out.
I would also shoot the Backcountry suppressor on my Bergara Crest Carbon 308 rifle, another lightweight hunting rifle that is optimal for the Banish Backcountry suppressor. And also for some serious testing I would mount the Backcountry to my Desert Tech SRS M2, a rifle I shoot very frequently, which would allow me to evaluate the Banish characteristics based on known performance.
My PVA Modus rifle worked great using the Backcountry suppressor
my Desert Tech SRS M2 with the 308 barrel installed, the Backcountry can was a perfect fitthe SRS M2 with the Backcountry suppressor and Apex Rival riflescope
Leather has a long history with regard to firearms. And though there have been many advancements with materials, leather still seems to maintain its spot next to to firearms. Today’s subject is about a leather product that continues that intimate relationship, and we’ll go into why after hundreds of years, gun-leather continues to be a commonly used word. 1791 Gunleather manufactures high-quality leather products for both guns and other tools. And today we are taking a look at the 1791 Gunleather Ultra Custom Holster.
1791 Gunleather
According to their website, 1791 manufactures high quality leather products with an angle towards gun carrying and other waist mounted tools. Holsters, belts and other tool carrying leather products all made from American steerhide.
I’ve used one of their products previously which came in handy when I couldn’t use a holster. You can read about my experience with their EDC tool-carrier here, and after using that for some time I figured I would try one of their award winning Ultra Custom holsters.
1791 Gunleather Ultra Custom Holster
Since I’ve been carrying concealed pistols for several decades now, I thought it would be proper to better familiarize myself with good CCW holsters. The Ultra Custom holster from 1791 is an IWB holster that uses the natural qualities of leather for a secure and safe carry experience.
The Ultra Custom holster comes in various sizes to accommodate for your choice in handguns. Since I have a variety of similar handguns, I selected one for a Glock 19 sized pistol. One of the features of the Ultra Custom is its memory lock technology, which I assume is some kind of process they use on the leather to make it moldable by the end user. It also comes with two belt clips (1″ and 1.5″) that secure the holster to your belt while allowing you to tuck your shirt if your that kind of guy. Securing the clip is done with some very solid screws that attach to a threaded nut-plate under the leather.
The 1791 Ultra Custom holster with its included manipulation tools for custom fitting
Custom fitting the holster to your firearm is done using heat. The holster comes with a thick zip-seal plastic bag that you use to submerge the holster in 165* water for five minutes. After which you insert your pistol and allow it to cool, as the holster cools it seems to shrink to fit your pistol. Several tools are included to help you custom mold the holster to fit your needs.
pulling the heated holster from the bag after a hot water bath
The process was pretty straight forward, and if reading isn’t your strong-suit there’s a QR code on the box to take you to a video to walk you through it.
Carrying the Ultra Custom holster
Once I had the holster fit and assembled, it was time to put it to use. I’ve always been more of a OWB holster kind of guy, but this was a good place to start. A good belt is always recommended when carrying a pistol, whether you use one from 1791 or somewhere else, get you a good one.
Comfort
One of the first things I noticed while carrying this holster is that its smaller than others. A smaller footprint is definitely a plus when carrying, both for comfort and printing. I also noticed it was a touch thicker than I expected.
carrying the holster up front was comfortable and convenient
Tucking the holster in my normal carry position at the back of my right hip was a little less than ideal. It wasn’t as comfortable, and it also printed more than I would like. I ended up carrying the holster either in the small of my back, or appendix. It was far more comfortable there and was easily concealed.
Sitting in cars and other places I was pleased with how comfortable the soft leather felt. The back-strap of the holster covers the slide nicely, preventing it from rubbing against your skin.
Drawing my Dagger pistol from the holster was easy and smooth
Draw
Drawing from the holster was clean, even when drawing from positions I typically don’t carry. The fit of the 1791 holster to my pistol kept it snug and in place, despite not having any specific retention feature. It was also easy to re-holster the pistol after drawing.
Security
The single belt-clip on this holster seemed to be sufficient in keeping it in place. The friction of the soft leather also seems to add to the foundation of the holster in your belt. The custom fit feature definitely matches up well to my pistol, and at no time did I feel like the gun would have come out. I think it would take some aggressive motorcycle riding or roller coaster rides to risk a pistol coming out of this holster. And even then it’s very doubtful.
the holster was easy to clip in and out of your waistband
Getting the holster in and out of your waistband was relatively easy. Making the holster good if your the kind of guy who is always switching it up.
Pros and Cons
As if the smell of American steer hide wasn’t enough, the handsome finish of the leather gives a very high quality feel and look. And the thick leather will surely protect your pistol from whatever it might contact. I also mentioned how comfortable the holster was, and how I appreciate its smaller footprint. It does have a good balance between covering the pistol, and not being oversized.
If I had to come up with some downsides the the 1791 Ultra Custom holster it would be this; There is not quite enough coverage to protect the magazine release, which could cause the magazine to be dropped inadvertently. It would take some very specific stabbing actions to happen, so I think it is a very low priority but something you should know. I also wish there was a way to make the holster just a little bit thinner, to make it even more comfortable and concealable. But we could say that about any other holster as well.
Whether you are a big fan of gun leather, or you just like to keep the comfort of what has worked for hundreds of years, the 1791 Gunleather Ultra Custom holster is a good option. It’s ability to mold to better fit your pistol is a nice feature, and it fits nicely into most waistbands. It’s a great way to ensure your pistol is always where you need it, and ready for use.
